The importance of being Ernest

I’ve now realized for the first time in my life the vital importance of being Ernest,” says Jack (Ernest) Worthing in Oscar Wilde’s famous play, The Importance of Being Earnest. He adds: “It is a terrible thing for a man to find out suddenly that all his life he has been speaking nothing but the truth...” Earnest, in the play’s title, means “honest.” Wilde’s use of comic irony may make him frivolous but, scrutinized closely, he was making significant comments on society.

Definitely, Ernest Santiago lived life the way he wanted. He was honest and stayed true to himself. He lived life to the fullest. “He always knew what he wanted and he had the gall to do it,” said Ramon San Agustin, VIP service manager of Stores Specialists, Inc. “He was able to convert his dreams to reality. He was a risk-taker,” he added.

“It was the time of misbehaving,” said San Agustin during the start of their friendship in the ‘70s. Ernest created the most happening place then. His nightclub attracted an eclectic mix of people. It was the heady and glorious days of disco. “Ernest was not only a designer but also a lifestyle icon. Coco Banana was the first gay bar in Asia and is forever etched in the minds not only of gays but also of straights,” shared Louie Cruz. “His greatest achievement was giving Coco Banana to the lovers of life and fun,” added designer Christian Espiritu. To further emphasize its iconic status, the place was mentioned in Hotdog’s hit theme song to the movie with the same title, Annie Batungbakal:

Sa umaga, dispatsadora Sa gabi, siya’y bonggang-bongga Pagsapit ng dilim, nasa Coco Banana, Annie Batungbakal, sa disco isnabera Sa disco, siya ang reyna…

“I was only 16 when I met mother Ernest,” said hairstylist Henri Calayag. “I was the kaladkarin and considered the youngest of his children.” “Ramon was the eldest,” added designer Larry Leviste, the middle child. “He was the most unselfish person I have ever met,” Leviste added. San Agustin, Leviste and Calayag lovingly remember Ernest as their mother. “He was so true to our friendship.  We didn’t have to see each other often. We just had a deep understanding of each other,” said San Agustin. “I just recently transferred homes and he sent me a beautiful bed — he didn’t have to. He was so generous,” added Agustin. “During my Paper Doll days when I was impersonating celebrities, Ernest made all my outfits. I was his doll,” shared Henri Calayag. “I am so honored and privileged to have experienced Ernest in my life.”

Like Henri, I am so fortunate to have experienced Ernest. I first met him professionally in the early ‘90s at one of Ben Farrales’ charity events, Fashion For A Cause. These were memorable events. Fashion is frivolous and it felt good to share talent to help those in need. The work felt more worthwhile. Backstage was chaos! It was like a carnival. The entire fashion industry was involved. It was a perfect venue to meet the “who’s who” of the business. During these events, designers usually had their muses to model for them. Ernest was not as involved in the industry as he was in the previous decades so he needed models for his creations. I was not only pleased that he chose me but also honored. He was one of my design icons long before I started to model. Before I met him, all knew how mataray he was. “It is all smoke and mirrors — a façade,” Larry told me. That was his public persona. But if he liked you, he would reveal the real Ernest — dynamic, passionate and full of laughter. I don’t know if he mellowed with age but the Ernest I met professionally was far from this persona. I met the real Ernest and I consider myself so lucky.  He liked models that were confident, bold and not afraid of their sexuality — like his creations. And I am fortunate that he believed in me.

He also loved drama. He loved to make a statement. He loved the theatrical. This sprung from his exposure to Philippine stage, bodabil (the Filipinized term from the French vaudeville or Spanish vodavil), adapted from the American influence. This French form of theater included song-and-dance numbers, skits, stand-up comedy and music and magic acts. They were stage shows both outdoors and indoors, in barrios, towns and cities from religious feast days, fiestas and civic occasions. Eventually, it became regular evenings at venues such as Manila Grand Opera House and the Savoy (later Clover) Theatre. Here emerged Filipino talent and cultural trends.  Katy dela Cruz was one of them and became the queen of Filipino jazz. This legendary performer would be one of the most important women in Ernest’s life. He became her alalay and this exposure to stage design and costumes would greatly influence his career as a fashion designer.

Another woman who significantly influenced his life was Consuelo “Chito” Madrigal-Collantes. “Ernest told me, ‘That day she knocked on my door at my San Marcelino shop changed my life,’” said San Agustin. In the mid-‘60s to late ‘70s, the Hyatt fashion luncheon shows organized by Collantes were the talk of the town.  She fostered the growth of the best designers and models of the time. In this period, Ernest became one of the movers and shakers of the industry. “He came from the school of hard knocks. He was self-taught,” said San Agustin. “He first worked as a mayordomo for a family after the war,” said Leviste. “That was where he honed his cooking skills,” he added. Despite his lack of education, he was ambitious. He was not self-conscious of his roots; rather, this was a motivation. “He taught me that talent was not enough,” said Calayag. “Hard work has to come hand in hand,” he added. “He rose from the ranks. His stamina for hard work astounded me,” said San Agustin. “And each time, he outdid himself,” he stressed. “He was proud of his humble beginnings. He reached his apex when he started being addressed as Santiago de Manila. He was a forward-thinking artist — a fashion designer,” said Espiritu. But of course, he also knew how to enjoy life. “He also taught me the good things in life. He showed me his fabulous and eccentric lifestyle,” said Calayag. There is no doubt that Ernest knew how to have fun!

I was only 14 when I owned my first Santiago de Manila. I had no idea that I would become a model then. I just knew I had a love for clothes and I was so in love with his designs. And never in my wildest dreams would I have imagined to model for him. Already, in the ‘80s, he was avant-garde. Think Mugler or Gaultier. Aside from the designs, he also had the personality to match.

“He pushed Filipiniana out of costume to be more ready-to-wear,” said Leviste.

Christmas was a treat (it was one of the few occasions when I was allowed to buy a new outfit)! Each time, I was off to ShoeMart’s Boutique Square where the best local designers’ ready-to-wear lines were showcased. Ernest was one of the first designers to present a ready-to-wear collection next to Larrie Silva and Cesar Gaupo at the established department stores.

“Ernest is my Valera awardee and the second Hall of Famer for Fashion next to Joe Salazar. I directed at least five of his shows but he had full grasp of how he envisioned his shows — the set, the lights and the music. He would tell me the impact, then I would interpret,” said director Oskar Atendido.

“In my early years of designing, Ernest would give his unsolicited advice about anything and everything, over the phone or at Coco Banana where we would talk every so often,” recalled designer Barge Ramos. He knew talent when he saw it and he fostered its growth. “Mataray talaga yan,” declared designer Cesar Gaupo.  “He was very vocal about his opinions and always wanted to share his knowledge. His work speaks for itself. He was an inspiration to many designers for his creativity and forward thinking,” said Gaupo. Tats Manahan added, “Anything seemed to inspire Ernest… color, shape, a graphic, a design, even just a thought or concept. He just pulled out anything and made it something.”

Ernest Santiago was one of the select few who could make the whole room stop and take notice. As soon as you saw him, you knew that there was something special about the man. He had a distinct presence. He was so passionate about everything he laid his hands on. Not content with fashion, he ventured into furniture, interior and landscape design. Then, as if these were not enough, he also dipped his hands into cooking and table setting. He set up 83 Gallery Café at his home in Pagsanjan, serving Filipino cuisine and selling his creations. It was a great experience for my family and me to visit him a few years ago. He looked so content and happy. Aside from the landscape design of Shangri-La Mactan in Cebu, he also designed “Coco Villa,” inspired by the original native design with a modern twist for a new development of Imperial Homes Corporation, Tagaytay Meridian. Still not content, he invested in Kilib, Quezon — his food sanctuary. “I am so happy I took the four-hour trip to celebrate his opening last November 30. He even told me that he was thinking of adding rooms to accommodate guests who want to stay overnight. I will miss his katarayan and his flamboyant ways. He was so much fun,” former model and fashion director Wanda Louwallien said. Cesar Gaupo, Mike dela Rosa, Tonichi Nocom and Henri Calayag share the same sentiment. “It was so strange,” said Calayag. “It felt like this was the last request of Mother. That is why, despite all my commitments, I went,” he added. “Who would’ve thought it would be the last time I would see him? But I think he had a premonition. All his children were present, and he looked so happy,” stressed Calayag. “I am so glad that I greeted him with a tight hug.”

“After the Hyatt reunion last February, I spoke to Ernest about the possibility of yet another bigger and more fabulous project for 2008. I could see the glow in his eyes... the enthusiasm. He was so into the groove and had expressed his willingness to be a part of it.  He was ecstatic and wanted to give back to fashion what fashion has given to him,” said former model Celine Magat-Lopez. “Just before he left the fashion world, we spent a lot of time sharing our thoughts. I’d see the gestation in his eyes,” added Tats Manahan.

“When we can celebrate the perfection, we allow the essence and the soul of our loved one to celebrate it as well, releasing it to the unspeakable wonders of its larger reality, honoring its presence in our lives, in its former physical form, now in this moment, and even forevermore.” The words of Neale Donald Walsch, author of the best-selling Conversations with God book series. Ernest had reached his peak. He made an invaluable contribution not only to the world of fashion but also the realms of contemporary culture and living. “He was the complete artist,” both Calayag and San Agustin agreed. “He had the eye, the move, the sense and he connected globally,” added Calayag. He was an innovator of fashion, lifestyle and landscaping. He was a renaissance man,” said Atendido.  Writer, publisher and artist Gilda Cordero-Fernando added, “He was a stunning original, a dynamo, a fine actor and an inspiring friend.”

Perhaps the greatest achievement of it all is how many true friends he had. It was so overwhelming to gather the thoughts and experiences of so many well-respected artists last Sunday and until my four o’clock deadline the next day. They had nothing but beautiful words to say about Ernest. Barge Ramos even volunteered to send messages for me like a secretary.  Even Celine Magat-Lopez shared an e-mail from her friend, former model Ces Artadi-Briggs. She wrote, “I weep for the loss of our special friend, Ernest, but will treasure the many wonderful memories of times and laughter spent with him... This all makes me realize even more how we truly need to cherish our loved ones and be so very grateful for each day & every moment spent with them. (I am just so, so glad to have seen Ernest last February to have that final memory of him laughing and being his ‘diva’ self.)”

“Celebrate, celebrate, celebrate! No more sadness, no more mourning, for no tragedy has truly befallen anyone. Yet special remembrance with smiles and tears, yes, but tears of joy at the wonder of Who We Are, and of the unspeakable love of a God who could have created all this for us,” wrote Walsch. Flamboyant Ernest, who had such a zest for life, would not have wanted it any other way.

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