Most Wanted Accessories

What’s new and exciting? Accessories. Choices are now limitless. It all started as a rebellion to the minimalist Nineties. After the Y2K scare passed, consumers gained their confidence back and started spending. And the fashion houses offered what the consumers were looking for. The past seasons set the trend on attention-grabbing accessories.

Now a key accessory makes an outfit "put together." "Accessories are like the punctuation in a sentence – you need good ones to make your look complete," says Eileen Celentano of the Art Institute of Portland. Adding a few of the newest accessories is the cheapest and surest way to update your wardrobe. With the current worldwide situation, it is the best way to look up-to-date without feeling so guilty.

The passion for the latest must-have accessories has gone to the extreme. "Accessory rage" is discussed in Polly Vernon’s article entitled "Accessory to the Crime", September 2001 British Vogue. "It’s the fashion equivalent of keying a beautiful car," says one victim. "Destroying something you don’t have so that the owner loses all pleasure in it. The act is completely pointless and spiteful."

It started in the chicest places in Manhattan from TriBeCa to the meatpacking district, Park Avenue and SoHo, among others. Women return from these hip places and discover deliberately stubbed cigarettes, streaked lipstick marks, daubed mayo, dripping nail varnish and stuck graying chewing gum on their much-coveted accessories.

"On one particularly desperate occasion, an entirely sticky, glutinous Bellini was emptied into a Bottega Veneta handbag – a decidedly uncharitable act that was, ironically enough, carried out during a charity lunch," writes the author. "I heard about people having tassels on bags or belts cut off while they’re queuing for a club. That never happens by accident," comments one stylist.

"Accessories – especially those hard to get hold of – are, after all, fashion trophies. The limited-edition syndrome, which sees fashion houses producing very small quantities of their most desirable items, has exacerbated the situation." Wait lists seem to be the norm these days for the most-wanted accessories of the season.

Fashion houses have become very successful with this hype. A woman who desperately wants something would go through lengths just to have it. After all, isn’t it human nature to want what we do not have?

Last season, Louis Vuitton’s Speedy bags with Stephen Sprouse’s graffitti design never even made it to the floor. There was not enough supply for the wait list. It was impossible to get it during a visit in Melbourne, I was too late in Hong Kong and Manila had the same predicament.

To order any bag from Hermes takes two to five years in Hong Kong. You cannot even specify the color you want. The house will just call you if one becomes available. Take it or leave it.

Another must-have for the season was first spotted on the fashion insiders in Milan during the summer. According to the July 2001 American Bazaar, the Balenciaga bag with brass hardware and long fringes was cleaned out of the Paris store. September’s French Vogue featured fashion icons with the cult accessory. It was such a hit that they also produced it this season. During a phone conversation with Ricco Ocampo a month ago, he mentioned that Tina was on the wait list at Barney’s New York for this bag. I told him I, too, was looking for this bag and already advised Joyce Boutique in Hong Kong to call me as soon as it is available. He offered to put me on wait list at Barney’s and of course I was only too happy to say, "Yes!" I was 304 on the list! that doesn’t look so good and you have to get whatever is available. I kept my fingers crossed. I couldn’t wait to get mine when I saw Tina’s bag. I was lucky enough to get one. I wanted brown but I got a black Napa. Beggars can’t be choosers!

"What’s the hype all about?" My sister Ces was not impressed when she saw it. As soon as I got the box, I was in a high – you may compare it to any addict succumbing to his vice. And I understand the other women who want to get their hands on the most wanted accessories of the season. It’s like an addict’s drug that can no longer satisfy. You will always want more.

Accessories have become so hot that fashion houses have started to launch their own jewelry lines.

Two seasons ago, Tom Ford designed a slinky gold chain lariat for Gucci that sold out immediately. Now, Ford is focusing on fine jewelry, from diamonds to pearls, garnets, citrines, blue topaz and peridots in silver and gold settings. He bases his designs on the same cool and edgy ready-to-wear line. This season, there are bold rings in cabochon amethyst or crystals, logo rings and gold Gucci nameplate bracelet and choker that’s very "Sex and the City." Even Christian Dior has its own fine jewelry line.

This season, Louis Vuitton is joining the craze. After applying its renowned craftsmanship in wood, leather, brass and canvas, Louis Vuitton creates another cult accessory, a gold bracelet with interchangeable charms with diamonds, sapphires, opal, coral, peridot, lapis lazuli, onyx and jade. Marc Jacobs drew inspiration from the Damier canvas and designed square links with rounded corners for the chain. Like its luggage, the bracelet’s closure is a padlock with the LV logo, which comes with a set of keys. Each charm is a symbol of travel – an airplane, a globe, bubbly champagne, celebrated cars, the Eiffel Tower and of course, the century’s most glamorous bags and suitcases created by the house. "The charm bracelet gives the opportunity to make it personal," says designer Marc Jacobs. "Each charm is a memory of a particular moment," he adds. "It is for the chic, young, energetic, and gorgeous jet-set woman or the fantasy of this woman."

Last Saturday, I went to the annual Manila F.A.M.E. International (MFi) show organized by the Department of Trade and Industry through the Center for International Trade Expositions and Missions (CITEM). The fair is grouped into subfairs, A Marketplace of Home Ideas, A Christmas Village and The Fashion Store. The fashion store includes costume jewelry, fine jewelry, leather goods and fashion complements. For the 34th season of the MFi, curator Federico de Vera used the bangus (milkfish) as his reference for the special setting that will highlight "Palengke," one of MFi’s three subfairs. "Bangus is the most natural object that represents Filipinos," according to de Vera. "It is universal, a symbol of good design that embodies the fundamental elements of form, function, proportion and color. It is, in essence, a perfect allegory for all things Filipino: people, tradition, culture, and the contemporary Philippine design today that embodies a multicultural perspective," he adds.

It is unfortunate that we are years behind in fashion accessory design compared to that of the home. "We are still stuck in the US$.50 cent market," stresses stylist Michael Salientes. Two years ago, he was tapped as the merchandise design consultant to develop the products of the fashion accessory line. I remember him venting his frustration on dealing with manufacturers. I thought they would be inspired with his help years ago. I was wrong. They are back to what they used to do.

Most of the designs I saw were trinkets and tiny stuff you would see in the tourist market. Only a few had cutting-edge designs. It is unfortunate that these exporters do not invest on designers to create specific collections for the season. They want to do so many things that it ends up to be a mish-mash of everything. It is not cohesive and strong. It does not create an impact. It was very disappointing.

"Let’s face it, we have ‘boundaries’ here, in terms of design. You could only do certain things. You cannot do a lot of things," says de Vera. We have so much to offer the international market if only we focus on design and craftsmanship.

Look at Filipino bag and accessory designer Rafe Totengco who is based in New York. He has come a long way. He now has his own store in New York and Lane Crawford and On Pedder in Hong Kong exclusively carry his line. He was recently nominated for the CFDA’s Perry Ellis Accessory Design Award. What do celebrities Sandra Bullock, Cameron Diaz, Helena Christensen, and Alexandra Von Furstenberg have in common? They all own a Rafe bag.

There is still a way to enjoy fashion without putting a hole in your pocket. Update your wardrobe with the latest accessory trend. Adding an accent to your outfit is all about self-expression. It shows your individuality.

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Send queries and suggestions to joyceo@netvigator.com