Out to brunch with Leo Espinosa

Last Sunday, Aug. 30, I went on my first out-of-town trip since the lockdown began on March 15. While the scenic drive to Tagaytay and Matuod, Batangas was relatively short, it was most pleasant and refreshing considering I had been cooped up in the concrete jungle for over six months.

My friend Cris Roque of Kamiseta Skin picked me up at 8:30 a.m. It was my first trip to the area after Taal Volcano erupted in January, and I was glad to see that Tagaytay was slowly but surely getting back to normal. Just before the ridge, wooden furniture shops were open and the highway was lined with vendors selling fruits and flowers, all bursting with color! Except for a slight build-up in Sta. Rosa near the ridge due to a checkpoint, there was no traffic at all and we were in Breakfast at Antonio’s by 10:30 a.m.

There were two groups of foreigners waiting to be seated in Breakfast at Antonio’s when we arrived. Before allowing entry, the guard asked all customers to scan their QR code. Once inside, I saw that the restaurant was busy with diners who looked like Metro Manila folk. My very dear friend Leo Espinosa had a table waiting for us.

Leo is a hair stylist and interior decorator whom I met over 30 years ago in Taipei. His A-list clientele includes former Pres. Gloria Arroyo, who trusted only Leo for her haircut when she was in Malacañang. Leo has also designed the interiors of many beautiful homes and offices, including Kamiseta Clinic at BGC and Ayala 30th. Leo has his own unique fashion sense and lately, he’s been into caftans, specially made for him by Kamiseta. Such are the perks when the owner of Kamiseta, Cris Aldeguer Roque, is not just a client but a dear friend as well.

The Italian water fountain that welcomes the visitors

I love the rustic, casual and relaxed ambiance of Breakfast at Antonio’s, coupled with its breathtaking view of Taal Lake. The food served by owner/restaurateur Chef Tony Boy Escalante is consistently delicious and always made with the finest ingredients. I had the smoked salmon benedict on an English muffin with a tangy Hollandaise sauce, and a side order of the fluffiest pancakes. Cris had the fresh, “house-made” corned beef with baby potatoes, sauerkraut and horseradish. Leo, who invariably has a healthy appetite, had eggs benedict with pancakes and a side order of meatloaf. For dessert, we shared a slice of decadent chocolate truffle cake.

After brunch, we headed off to Leo’s resthouse in Matuod, Batangas, which is an hour from Tagaytay. A massive 10-foot tall golden gate with royal blue columns welcomes you as you enter his European-inspired beach house. As you go up the driveway lined with Kamuning trees, a gold water fountain surrounded by lush bushes greets you by the entrance of his magnificent home.

The view of the beach from the terrace of Leo’s rest house in Batangas.

Inside, more European-inspired furniture and antiques dominate the space… with a mirrored ceiling to boot! All sliding doors leading to the three bedrooms and kitchen are made of mirrored panels that make the living area seem larger. At the other end of the house is a wide terrace that overlooks the beach and doubles as the dining area, with a long, rectangular antique wooden table and benches. This is where Leo waits early in the morning for the fishermen to come back with their fresh catch, which then prompts a decision about what to cook that day. He spends most lazy afternoons simply gazing at the beach and enjoying the fresh sea breeze, grateful that this sanctuary is where he’s been holed up because of the pandemic.

The entrance.

Leo has quickly embraced provincial life and has befriended most of his neighbors. One such neighbor is Noriel, who is known for his hilot skills. Because I had not had a massage for over six months and could feel the knots and bolts on my back, Leo insisted I give Noriel a try. When Noriel arrived (he wore a mask, as did I) and began working his magic on my back, I felt immediate relief! If only for this, the trip to Batangas was worth it. I quickly fell asleep and woke up an hour later. After my nap, Leo, Cris and I chatted by the beach as the household staff prepared our early dinner. Leo served us crispy flying fish (caught earlier that day), adobong baboy (lovingly cooked by his aunt), and apple crumble from Antonio’s for dessert. What a wonderful way to end my first Sunday out of town in six months.