MANILA, Philippines - As I excitedly booked our table at the recently-opened Jamie’s Italian in Hong Kong, the receptionist curtly informed me that I only have 90 minutes to finish my meal then vacate the table. Why did she warn me in advance? Did it look like I was planning to stay in my table past their bedtime? What if the food took over 90 minutes to arrive? Would I have to pay the bill and leave without eating what I ordered? For a restaurant chain, whose owner abhors fast food, I needed to eat my food fast.
Most people visit Hong Kong to shop. I visit Hong Kong to eat. Nothing excites me more than discovering the new restaurants that have recently opened in the former crown colony and the arrival of yummy Shanghai crabs every October.
Of late, Hong Kong has been a food mecca for gourmets, gourmands and foodies like me who have a huge appetite for fine or crude dining.
Recently, I had the pleasure (or pain) of visiting two restaurants operated by two of the food gods, Joel Robuchon (current total: 28 Michelin Stars) and Jamie Oliver within one afternoon.
Jamie Oliver is one of my chef idols whom I follow religiously on TV and social media. He founded Jamie’s Italian food chain in 2008 and to date, he has more than 30 restaurants worldwide and still counting. Jamie’s Italian Manila, I heard from a reliable source, will open next year. Jamie’s Italian Hong Kong is neatly tucked at the fourth level of Harbour City Ocean Centre.
As the restaurant receptionist escorted me to my table, I noticed that Jamie’s Italian in Hong Kong is much bigger than the ones I have visited in London (at Picadilly and Covent garden). The inside decor was a bit too busy and eclectic compared to the London counterparts that were decorated more conservatively. Legs of prosciutto which I would assume are of Parma Italy origin decorate the entry of the main dining hall.
After checking the menu, I ordered the typical Italian staples pizza and pasta. The Tagliatelle Bolognese I was served with was evenly seasoned with a good balance of sour and salty. The sauce had an ample amount of ground beef and most important, the pasta was made from Durum wheat and cooked al dente. The superfood salad with beets, fennel, avocado and grains left a lot to be desired. The avocado was unripe and tough, and the diced beets did not blend well with the salad. They should take this salad off the menu. I absolutely loved the truffle infused cheese pizza which disappeared from the pan into my belly in no time at all. I highly recommend this. My main entrée, which was the special of the day, was slowly roasted (18 hours they claim) Porchetta. The pork was tender but too salty even for a guy like me who loves salty food.
I should have ordered a different entrée. For the experience, I recommend Jamie’s Italian but as a regular place to dine, I think it will be up to the diner’s taste.
I’d like to add that all of Jamie’s food and cook books and souvenirs are on sale at the restaurant entrance. I’ve never returned ever since lest I be warned to consume my food again in 90 minutes flat.
I’ve been a regular at Joel Robuchon Café at Harbour City ever since it opened. I eat breakfast and lunch on a daily basis at this restaurant whenever I’m in Hong Kong.
Although not as spacious as Jamie’s Italian, the ambiance is very European in a tasteful red and black motif. The prices are not as killer as the three Michelin Star Robuchon Au Dome in Macau but not friendly either for the austerity conscious diner. As the saying goes, “You only get what you pay for” and I would comment boldly though that it’s worth every cent. I’ve tried close to everything Joel Robuchon Café’s serve, including the Blue Mountain coffee which has been taken off the menu for being too expensive for a casual café.
If you were to order only one entrée, try my No. 1 favorite which I order every time, Cocquillettes pasta (their version of Mac & Cheese but infused with black truffles and ham bits). The serving looks puny but don’t be fooled because it packs a punch and is very filling. Every bite is like a party in my mouth with a medley of flavors. Another entrée I enjoy is their Maine lobster with mushroom and cheese gratin served with Joel Robuchon fries and salad. The lobster is below one pound and leaves me craving for more. I once ordered their Mixed Mushroom Spaghetti with soft poached egg and parmesan cheese, and expected big flavor but I found it lacking in character. I also recommend the Crispy Duck which is in a league of its own. Crispy roasted skin on the outside and tender juicy in the inside. They also offer lots of cakes and sweet offerings for dessert. To end the meal, I always order Joel’s Fruit Tea with a generous scoop of sorbet on top. At the facade of the restaurant, freshly-baked breads, cakes, tarts, macaroons, chocolates and ice cream are available for take-out.
I’m looking forward to see more restaurants by great chefs like Mario Batali, Wolfgang Puck, Jose Andres and the likes to open at Harbour City and who knows, maybe maverick Pinoy chefs like Bruce Lim and Gene Gonzalez will open shop, too, and introduce Pinoy cuisine in Hong Kong.