The bagoong revolution

MANILA, Philippines - Ever tried dessert with bagoong? Sounds preposterous but it’s really good and I have sampled it myself at Bagoong Club — an innovative Pinoy fusion restaurant that features bagoong on most of its dishes from appetizer to dessert reminiscent of Beverly Hills favorite restaurant Stinking Rose where all dishes have garlic.

Bagoong or fermented shrimp or fish paste has always been a side dish or dip favored by most Pinoys and for die-hard bagoong lovers like me, as a main entree like Crispy Binagoongan Bagnet. There are several bagoong varieties in the Philippines all depending on the region it comes from.

There’s Bagoong Balayan, Bagoong Halubaybay, Bagoong Alamang, etc. Bagoong Alamang is the most common served and utilized. It’s used as a compliment to Kare Kare, garnish for Green Mango or any steamed vegetable, as a flavor enhancer for pork known as Binagoongan and ingredient in Pinakbet. Bagoong is a favorite not only in the Philippines but around Asia as well. It is known as Terasi (also spelled Trassi, Terasie) in Indonesia, Ngapi in Burma, Kapi in Thailand, Belacan (also spelled Belachan, Blachang) in Malaysia, Mam Ruoc, Mam Tép, Mam Tôm (the name depends on the shrimp used) in Vietnam and Haam ha/Ha jeung in the Cantonese region of China. The famous Chinese condiment XO Sauce is closely related to bagoong.

The Bagoong Club I visited was at Katipunan Ave. on White Plains (there is a Bagoong Club at Scout Lazcano in Q.C.). I was a bit skeptic how bagoong could be the star of an entire menu without being redundant but I was surprised as how innovative they have melded bagoong in almost all dishes from appetizer to dessert without being boring.

Bagoong Club is the brainchild of Ateneo and Harvard Business school graduate Miguel Aguiluz. Miguel is no stranger to the food business as he owns the Philippine franchise of the world-famous food chains Johnny Rockets, Quiznos and the high-end Buddha Bar. He is the only son and heir apparent of AMA group CEO Amable “King” Aguiluz.

Mini-plates of sliced Jicama (Singkamas) with regular and spicy bagoong appeared on our table as soon as we sat. The crunchy subtle taste of Jicama dunked in bagoong awoke my tastebuds and prepped me for the delights that were about to be served. First to arrive was Crunchy Shrimp Okoy that substitutes the normal kalabasa with kamote (sweet potato) strips briefly marinated in bagoong. I already love the crunchy street food okoy but this one elevates it to a higher level. The slightly sweet taste of crunchy kamote peppered with crisp salty shrimps dunked in tart sukang Iloko (Ilocos vinegar) exploded in my mouth with a medley of flavors. I polished two big servings in three minutes flat. Another appetizer emerged after and this was an original concoction of Bagoong Club: Fried banana hearts with vegetable strips. A surefire delight for vegetarians.

Steaming hot Bulalo Monggo soup with a slight hint of bagoong was served next. It was tasty with the right balance flavors and not too thick. I found it so yummy Miguel had to give me a second serving. Although I was close to full, I still indulged in the delectable entrees like Pork Binagoongan and Crispy Binagoongan Bagnet. By the time dessert arrived, all I could muster was taste the Turon Langka and Ice Cream with bagoong powder lest my tummy explode. As I bid adieu to Miguel, I could hardly walk with the extra pounds I gained. I quietly whispered to my wife, “I suspect that pretty soon they will serve bagoong-flavored iced tea.” I will surely come back to Bagoong Club as I have only tried a minuscule sample of their dishes.