Ilocos as FPJ country

On a quick trip to Ilocos hosted by the management of Plaza del Norte Hotel & Convention Center, we were confronted by various facts we had previously thought were urban legends. One is that to this day in Ilocos, former President Ferdinand Edralin Marcos is still regarded as their hero. The Ilocano who drove us confirmed that Apo Ferdie, years after his death, when history still dogs him for real and unreal sins, and his waxed body lies venerated by all, will forever remain their hero.

Another icon, however, was our principal motive for going around the province. Everyone knows Fernando Poe Jr. (FPJ) loved to situate many of his films in Ilocos. We wondered where his locations were, where he stayed, what he ate, who were his friends, and if people still remember him.

FPJ’s most popular film is Ang Panday, from a komiks serial by Carlo J. Caparas, screenplay by Fred Navarro and music by Ernani Cuenco. Shot in the sand dunes of Ilocos Norte, the 1980 film with Poe as Flavio, Max Alvarado as his enemy Lizardo and Paquito Diaz as the resident villain, spawned three others, Ang Pagbabalik ng Panday in 1981, Ang Panday Ikatlong Yugto 1982, and Ang Panday Ika-apat na Aklat in 1984. These films were yearly entries to the Metro Manila Film Festival, receiving nominations and awards. The original Ang Panday induced the production of many others including the Bong Revilla series.

We visited the sand dunes which we also recall clearly from the 1983 movie Himala we line-produced for the Experimental Cinema of the Philippines (ECP) under Imee Marcos as director general, with Charo Santos as executive producer. Ishmael Bernal was the director, Ricky Lee the writer, and Nora Aunor the star. The film went on to gain international recognition, and until today is celebrated as one of the greatest Filipino films of all time.

The dunes where Nora went to pray, and where she gathered the flock to confess “Walang Himala” is a sorry site today, unkempt and unattractive. A few guard the premises, awaiting some tourists brought by the legend of Himala and the warrior Flavio of the Panday series.

 We had reserved the following day for Vigan, Ilocos Norte where FPJ shot his period pieces, making use of the churches and homes from the Spanish era, many of which have been declared Unesco Heritage sites.

Ang Alamat (1972) directed by Celso Ad Castillo, re-shown two weeks ago over Cinema One, was shot entirely in Vigan. The cast included Pilar Pilapil as leading lady, Paquito Diaz, Romy Diaz, Frankie Navaja Jr. and Jose Padilla Jr.

While hunting for places where FPJ stayed, we would chance upon restaurants whose personnel recall FPJ eating with his crew; others had his picture as among the guests; but most claimed they were too young to recall. We texted his wife, Susan Roces, for his favorite food, hoping it would lead to restaurants and hotels. She answered back, “Ron’s preference in eating places when on location is where the locals eat. Gusto nya ang sinanglao na may papaitan after a drinking spree. He loves the Vigan empanada outside the church by the stairway. He’d usually bring home bagnet with matching dinuguan dip, giant size chicharon and super long Vigan longanisa.” We found a restaurant with FPJ’s picture with a fan, along with that of Manny Pacquiao. But no one could give details when this was taken.   

On our last day, someone from the Vigan tourism bureau suggested that we might look for Villa Angela which was the private home of Don Agapito Florendo Bonifacio in 1873 before it was turned into a hotel in 1990. What a bonanza this turned out to be! Not only was this house the setting of FPJ’s Hindi Pa Tapos ang Laban (1994), but it is also where he and his crew stayed for at least three months during the filming. The story tells of Poe coming home for the funeral of a brother who supposedly died of a heart attack, but apparently was shot for refusing to sell his land to the powerful congressman. Poe, of course must go after the villain and avenge his brother. However, there were also no pictures available. But we were no longer surprised. FPJ is known to be a very private person. The current owners respected this and the entire filming went on smoothly.

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