Robuchon revisited (Another white truffle experience)

MANILA, Philippines -  At an average cost of $15,000 per kilogram, white truffles qualify as one of the most expensive food in the world. In contrast, Beluga Caviar costs around $8,000 per kilo while Saffron costs an average of $7,000 per kilo. I have been addicted to White Truffles ever since I tasted it in Venice back in 1977. I’ve been such a devotee of this fungal diamond that I would schedule my trips to Europe in October and November during white truffle season.

White truffles from Alba or the Piedmont region of Italy are the best. They are harvested between October and early December. Their usual size is 12 cm and they weigh around 500 grams. In 2007, a 1.5 kilogram truffle was unearthed in the Pisa region of Italy and was put on the auction block. Stanley Ho, casino magnate of Macau and owner of Galera a’ Robuchon purchased it at a record $330,000. He had it shaved over pasta in one of his lavish parties.

After going through a recent grueling 13-city tour of Asia with John Ford Coley and the Cascades where I lost at least 15 pounds, I furiously located a weekend escape where I can indulge in my all-time gastronomic passion. I was exhilarated to find my favorite three-star Michelin restaurant Galera a’ Robuchon in Macau owned by superstar French chef Joel Robuchon offering a white truffle sampling menu.

A variety of breads.

For us mere mortals who have meager budgets for this earthy delight, just a few thin white truffle shavings over eggs, pasta or toasted bread transports us to gourmet heaven. White truffles haunted my belly ever since I subconsciously booked a flight to Macau for the weekend. As I boarded my flight on Friday night, I was already salivating and hoping I could be squeezed in Robuchon’s always full guest list. Even before checking into my favorite hotel the Lisboa, I made known to Robuchon’s maitre d’ that I have arrived and was awaiting their advice on what meal setting I could be accommodated in. After a two-day wait, I got “squeezed” in Sunday lunch.

Like a boy anticipating the arrival of Santa Claus, I counted the hours to Sunday lunch.

With my wife Mady in tow, we entered Robuchon around 11:45 a.m. Nothing much has changed in the decor since my visit last year except that almost all their waitresses are now good-looking Pinays. This is my sixth visit in three years and I was seated at my favorite window view table. Without hesitation, I ditched the menu and ordered the white truffle sampling menu where all five portions are topped with generous shavings of the fungal diamond. I won’t mention the price as it is criminal.

The dining extravaganza started with a variety of baked breads that all tasted superb.

My favorite was the cheese encrusted roll.  First plate to arrive was cauliflower panna cotta with almost buttery sea urchin in virgin oil topped with white truffle shavings. It put my appetite into “I want more” mode.

Next was crispy tart with baby spinach leaves in shredded parmesan topped with a quail’s egg and white truffle shavings. A medley of flavors burst in my mouth as I downed the tart.

The third platter was what we enjoyed most. Tender scampi inside ravioli bathed with a tasty foie gras emulsion plus Savoy cabbage as siding topped of course with white truffle shavings. I had to get extra bread to sop up the foie gras emulsion and truffle shavings left on the plate.

Then it was the sauteed veal chop with truffle sauce infused taglierini topped with white truffle shavings. I’m no big fan of veal or lean meat. I would have enjoyed this more had it been wagyu beef.

Last platter with white truffle shavings was Semolina stewed in chicken broth with crispy pork skin (chicharon) topped with white truffle shavings. As this was the last portion, I requested the waiter to put more white truffle shavings which he happily obliged to.

The dessert was yummy apple tart with cinnamon ice cream and Italian coffee.

In all, it took over two hours to serve the six-course white truffle sampling menu. Until white truffle season 2011, I will be saving money for the feast again.