The imperial world of fashion

Film review: Valentino: The Last Emperor

MANILA, Philippines - This one is a must-see for all fashionistas and pop culture vultures! Thanks to Eva Gullas and Cebu’s Zee Magazine, special screenings of this extraordinary documentary, Valentino: The Last Emperor, will be held in Manila, Cebu and Davao. Ostensibly a lifestyle portrait/documentary on Valentino Garavani, the man behind the Valentino couture label; it’s also a fascinating eye-opener into the business side of fashion, the struggles behind a fashion genius in the twilight of his career and influence, and an intimate, yet unsentimental, look at a relationship that has lasted some 50 years — that between Valentino, and his business partner, lover, best friend and partner-in-crime, Giancarlo Giammetti.

Spread over two years of couture shows in Paris and Rome, and highlighting one show celebrating his 45 years in the fashion spotlight, we get behind the scenes glimpses of the mercurial, bullying antics of Valentino, and how he transforms that all into a singular vision of transforming garments into works of art and beauty, all serving to flatter, compliment and idolize woman! Mention was made of how only true blue fashionistas would appreciate the merry-go-round of personalities that flit in and out of the scenes; and while that may lead to a deeper appreciation, one cannot deny that even as “personality study,” the documentary works like a charm. Valentino’s five pugs lord over his life, such that even on the privately chartered jet, they occupy two seats until the flight attendant insists they have to be held during take-off, and how Valentino boasts during one photo shoot that the dogs are so used to being photographed, they pose better than any model, and one proceeds, with impeccable timing, to relieve himself right by the photographer! These are just some of the priceless moments — as are the little asides captured on film between Valentino and Karl Lagerfeld. Gwyneth Paltrow, Anne Hathaway, Anna Wintour, Andre Leon Talley, Mick Jagger, Catherine Deneuve, Sarah Jessica Parker, Elton John — these are just some of the personalities one has to keep one’s eyes peeled for. The twinkle in his eye, the often times unreasonable demands and criticisms, the imperial demeanour (watch how he ignores Matteo Marzotto, representative of the business conglomerate that owns a majority of the Valentino Fashion Group, during social functions and fashion shows) — they all form part of the personality we get to understand and appreciate as the film unfolds.

Forget Fashion Runway, The Apprentice, and all those fashion-related reality shows! This is the real thing — a man who has built a fashion empire and continues to act like the world owes him one! While Valentino did “retire” soon after the footage for the documentary was completed, the creativity, the imagination, the effort placed in the clothes and the shows — they all form part of this fly-on-the-wall treatment and study of how the world of fashion really moves and shakes! Director Matt Tyrnauer does a masterful job of putting the footage together, and editing the amassed footage. Catch this one during its special screenings.