Feels like home

Rumors have it that Sen. Kiko Pangilinan disappears for a few hours some weekends to spend on hot, young… restaurants? It’s true. Long before his public service days, Sen. Kiko has made it sort of a tradition with buddies to try uniquely-conceptualized eating places here or abroad. From experience, the nationalistic senator could confirm credibly that nothing beats authentic Filipino food.

Therefore, it’s no surprise that in his first venture into the restaurant business, he offers diners something like Lamesa Grill. Located at equally-spanking new SM Mall of Asia, Lamesa is a casual dining place that incorporates novel elements with traditional fare.

"We wanted Lamesa Grill to be casual enough for family and friends to dine in regularly yet sophisticated, too, to become balikbayans’ and foreigners’ first choice when they think Filipino food," says Lamesa partner and long-time restaurateur Enrico "Rikki" Dee.

"Our restaurant forwards the reputation of the Filipino cuisine and restaurant scene without straying far from what we have enjoyed and loved through generations."

Lamesa’s specialty is a crispy twist of the crowning glory of Filipino cuisine, the lechon. Dubbed Crispchon, the 45-day-old pig is fried to a crisp, then carved piping hot right in front of diners. The slivers of meat are rolled inside Pandan Crepe with Wansuy, Cucumber and Leek Garnishes. These are then served with three unique sauces diners could choose from, namely Garlic, Wansuy-infused, Rikki’s choice, Spicy Pok Liver, Curry Mustard or Sweet Chili.

"Not many restaurants offer lechon except in buffets where it usually ends up stale by the time diners get to it," says Rikki. "Lamesa makes lechon not only fresh but affordable by optioning it at one whole, one-fourth, one-half and one-sixth. A whole crispchon costs less than P3,000, would you believe? As Sen. Kiko joked, the price is almost like public service."

An experience not to be missed explains the restaurant’s name: At Lamesa, diners can cook barbecue on their tables and right before their eyes!

An idea by Sen. Kiko, who noted that other Asians like Koreans, Japanese and Chinese have their own versions of this do-it-yourself barbecue, Lamesa has communal tables with pits carved in the middle. This is where marinated, thinly-sliced raw pork skewered through sticks are barbecued over charcoals (for that authentic inihaw taste and look) with assistance from servers. To ensure that diners don’t swelter in the heat nor end up smelling smoky, bamboo-exhausts are placed right before the coal pits while air condition is upped several temperatures higher than usual.

Another exciting culinary twist on the Lamesa menu is fish or shells cooked Kulob-style. Kinulob is a long-forgotten Filipino way of cooking proudly revived by Lamesa. Fish or shells are rubbed with or cooked on rock salt that preserves the meat juices, resulting in almost slightly sweet flavor; as if straight from the sea. The test of the pudding is what oozes in the mouth with every bite.

Then of course, there are all-time favorites, from entrees to dessert. Among these are inihaw na lumot (giant squids), kare-kare, pansit, sisig, sigarilyas sa gata, cassava cake, guinomis, tinapa roll, crispy tenga, hito flakes with mangga salad, grilled blue marlin, pinatayong manok ….so much gastronomic adventures to choose from.

If you come as a group, Lamesa also has its Sama-Samang Inihaw Platter and Sama-Samang Yaman Dagat. Like the rest, these are priced so ridiculously low that if cost is divided per head, one would be startled to know it’s almost the same price as eating in a fast food restaurant. Except that, of course, Lamesa is far, far beyond compare in every aspect, be it in quality of food and service to the ambience.

"We think of the tiniest detail," says Rikki. "Even if one just comes to the restaurant for beer, one would notice that we serve ours in a special dispenser so ice doesn’t touch the beer. This way, beer is not diluted and you get its full flavor. I know it shouldn’t come from me, but I can’t help but say, ‘isn’t that amazing?’ Ah, but people who’d come here would find out for themselves anyway."

No one who goes to the area of Lamesa Grill at SM Mall of Asia could miss it. The 150-seater restaurant made entirely of golden bamboos is dramatically highlighted by marble flooring. Its interiors of neo-ethnic persuasion makes it an interesting conversation piece while diners wait for their orders on indigenous "Ifugao" chairs. Playing background music is a man-made fall cascading on glass to the beat of classic and the latest Original Pilipino Music.

No one who dines at Lamesa Grill forgets it. At noon til dusk, the idyllic view of lapping waves and famed Manila Bay sunset take the breath away. At night, stars and moon add dramatic touches to picture-perfect panorama. It’s a perfect setting to good conversation with family, friends and loved ones.

It feels like home, looks like home, tastes like home, sounds like home… Lamesa is every Filipino’s grand homecoming. This is very important according to Mike Sicat, a close friend of mine, one of the partners of Lamesa.

Now, if one is lucky, one just might chance on another type of star – the mega-type.

"So far, the senator’s wife, Sharon (Cuneta), has only ordered take out food from Lamesa. But we’ve only been open for a few days. One of these days, she will try out the resto. And we could only hope it doesn’t ruin her diet... too much," ends Rikki.