Incredible India
Why did I meet you only now?” exclaimed my 15-year-old foodie nephew Matthew Dayrit to a little sweet funnel cake drenched in orange saffron syrup at a roadside restaurant in picturesque Agra as the sun was setting on the Taj Mahal. It was Matthew’s first time in India and all his apprehensions about the place dissipated as he gorged on his new BFF, the Indian funnel cake.
For 10 days, the flavors of Mumbai, Agra and Jaipur (and yes, their sights and sounds, too) were our guide to the Indian food lovers within us, during our discovery of these incredible cities. My sisters Michelle Soliven and Yvonne Romualdez, Matthew and I were just as excited as the exciting and pulsating experiences we had. The excitement began as we boarded our comfortable Cathay Pacific flight from Manila to Hong Kong, then to Mumbai. From Mumbai, we took a local plane to Jaipur. And via train, we experienced India. We also discovered Ahderabad for the kite-flying festival, which was like a celebration of New Year with kites and fireworks in the rooftops of homes and buildings. We also made a stopover in Surat.
Mumbai is the central meeting point of our trip with its very modern airport. Agra is a region symbolizing Mughal splendor and Jaipur is a land of color and pageantry. These three cities, so diverse and interlinked, because of their rich culture and historical traditions, provide a glimpse of the true essence of India.
The new Holiday Inn where we stayed in Jaipur was a welcome surprise. We were impressed by the modern Indian architecture, high ceilings and a lobby inspired by the palaces of the maharajas of old. The suites were ultra comfortable. Most unforgettable were the breakfasts we had each day that we stayed there. The buffet spread was a delight and an incentive to wake up for every day. Like having our own home, Indian and western kitchen from which emerged freshly baked waffles, dosas, coconut chutney, hummus, freshly made baby gulab jamun, smoothies made from fresh oranges and pink guavas.
On our first day in Jaipur, we met our gracious and knowledgeable guide Sunil, who brought us on a tour of the city palace. The nucleus of this Pink City, as it is called now, is the sprawling city palace or Chandra Mahal, covering almost one-seventh of Jaipur’s area. The complex, built in a delightful mix of Rajpur and Mughal styles of architecture, can be entered through the Sirehki-ki-Deorhi.
At the city palace gallery, Sunil introduced us to all the famous maharajas of their respective eras through their delicately painted portraits. In the royal hall, we marveled at the way they lived, upon viewing the exquisite jeweled fabrics, furniture, chandeliers, artifacts, wardrobes and awards they received at polo games. Towards early evening, the lights went on and, like magic, we saw the palace in a different light. It was surreal as the walls turned a golden and bluish hue. After the tour, our voracious appetites were ready for dinner. And off to Niro’s we went. When the door of this famous restaurant opened, we were transported to a bygone era with its ochre walls and green marble floors. It is one of the oldest, most popular restaurants. We had a delicious assortment of curries with all the condiments, tender chicken tandoori and fragrant roti that arrived on our table in little copper vessels, served to us by attentive waiters smartly dressed in Indian suits with scarlet turbans as lively music played. We went to bed extra happy that night.
Early the next morning we boarded our private bus and took a scenic ride to the magnificent Amber Fort. This is a UNESCO sight and one of the best tourist attractions of Jaipur. It was a perfectly cool and beautiful day as we stood at the foot of the Amber Fort looking up at the clear blue sky while waiting to board our elephants with much excitement. The huge elephants arrived dressed so colorfully. We rode on their cushioned backs. It was a comfortable and exhilarating experience and as we went higher and higher towards the Fort. We enjoyed the views below. As we alighted from our ride, we began the tour on foot with Sunil relating the tales of the Maharaja, his troops and concubines who lived there. It was a sunny day as we posed behind the Amber fort’s elaborate lattice wall where we were told that the maharani hides and waves from her special window to welcome the maharaja. Here, my playful sister Michelle could not resist climbing up to strike a pose.
On our way back to the city we stopped for a delightful lunch at the Royal Jaipur Palace where we dined al fresco in the blooming flower garden and there enjoyed the tastiest chicken biryani and lal mas or thick red mutton curry cooked Rajasthani-style.
Next on Sunil’s itinerary was the largest sundial in the world, made entirely out of stone. The observatory there also includes sundials, clocks, and other architectural oddities.
Another highlight was our visit to the temple Birla Mandir, a huge white Hindu temple where one can receive blessings and a shower of spiritual divinations.
Right when we thought we were done for the day, a special meal at Sunil’s house was our biggest surprise! It was also the first time we had ever been hosted for dinner in a private Indian home. We were so touched by the gentle grace and hospitality of his parents, wife and children who came out to greet us and formally welcome us into their quaint home with its cool, charming, cerulean blue walls. We were first served Masala tea, a creamy sweet milky caramel tea with hints of soothing ginger, which is my youngest sister Yvonne’s favorite. As we sipped our tea contentedly they began to bring out one heavenly dish after the other. Before our very eyes was spread the best homemade meal we’d ever tried. Huge green chili peppers fried in a tasty batter, which we dipped in creamy homemade yoghurt with tamarind chutney, made us moan in delight. The giant vegetable-filled samosas were the biggest we had ever seen and judged the tastiest as we shared bite after bite. The desserts blew our palates to the stars. There was carrot halwa and a dessert made from phyllo dough cut finely into thin honeyed threads that kept us wanting more. We couldn’t stop licking our fingers as we thanked our host.
Finally our day came to visit the Taj Mahal in Agra. One fun thing to plan for before one visits the Taj is to dress up in Indian fashion and get ready to strike a royal family pose. After all, such grandeur deserves your Sunday’s best.
The Taj is all about the love story of a powerful man, Shah Jahan, and his wife, the stunningly beautiful Mumtaz Mahal, with whom he had 14 children within their 18 years of marriage from 1621 to 1653. When she died, his only reason to continue living was to honor her memory. He decided to memorialize this passionate love with the greatest mausoleum of all time.
This is no ordinary structure. Engraved in stone, the design and construction is said to have been the only work of Ustad Ahmad Lahori upon the request of Shah Jahan. Created in a span of 22 years by 22,000 people, it was indeed a lifetime project that can hardly be surpassed. The layout of the Taj complex with its gardens and fountains is similar to that of an Islamic garden paradise. Shah Jahan’s cenotaph is placed alongside his wife’s, but the actual graves are in a chamber below. Every inch of the Taj was designed in perfect symmetry except for Shah Jahan’s tomb, which was lovingly commissioned by his daughter as it lay in its final resting place beside the only woman he ever loved. Semiprecious stones such as carnelian, black onyx, mother of pearl, jasper, agate, lapis lazuli, amethyst and sapphire were inlaid by hand into the finest marble sourced from the quarries of Makrana.
As the sun set over the magnificent Taj, we found the outdoor restaurant of our dreams. Believe it or not, it was an eatery called GMB by the roadside in Agra. The aroma of frying funnel cakes and orange saffron syrup, barbecued chunks of tofu, crispy potato skins drenched in barbecue sauce, fukna with mint and mango chutney, and the best custard like milky Peda left us speechless with glee as we sat by the road side on chairs and tables under the warming glow of a gas lantern. We fell into a contented sleep on the bus all the way back to Jaipur.
Incredible India, indeed.
* * *
E-mail the author at miladay.star@gmail.com.
