Fried Enoki, Please!

CEBU, Philippines — Tasting Menu (menu degustation in French) is an assortment of small dishes served as a single meal in a restaurant. It is an innovation from the regular menu to allow customers to sample various house specialties or new dishes.

Chef Izzy Francis Sy (of Kayu Restaurant and Bar located at Rockwell, 32 Sanson Road in Lahug, Cebu City) invited a group of mainline and online journalists to a Tasting Menu. He wanted to test the acceptability of his elaborate showcases for future offerings of the restaurant.

I’d written about Kayu Restaurant nearly two years ago – its cuisine is Modernist California.

At the recent event, first course was Fresh Oyster, Cilantro, Foie Gras, Teriyaki. Presentation was beautiful; oyster was served on its shell, topped with the foie gras (liver) and served on a designer plate. Teriyaki cooking of the foie gras (broiled with soy sauce, mirin & sugar) tempered the richness of its flavors. Being a purist when it comes to oysters, I ate it by itself and it was good. The foie gras followed and it was delicious.

The second course was the Lentil Salad with Apple, Garbanzos, Lemon Mustard Vinaigrette. The third dish was Squash Chawanmushi with Uni, Tobikko and Aerated Scrambled Egg and all my senses were on full alert. The dish is Japanese and literally means “steamed in a tea bowl.” 

I had not eaten a Chawanmushi before; it looked like an egg custard and indeed it was. Two types of egg roes were used; Uni which comes from the sea urchin and Tobikko from flying fish. Chicken egg was also used, so it was a dish that used three types of eggs that combined in releasing its umani flavors. There was also another ingredient on top and everyone thought it was fried squid. It was not – it was fried enoki mushroom. The sum of everything was a wonderful dish.

The fourth course was Puffed Rice Risotto with Truffle Broth, Shitake, Preserved Lemons and Bacon. I have eaten versions of puffed rice and the texture is reminiscent of childhood experiences eating the ampao of Carcar. Two mushrooms, truffle and shitake, loaded with umani flavor made this dish quite tasty.

The next two dishes were served in quick succession, “Medium-Rare” Salmon with Parsley, Cucumber, Egg, Beetroot, Soy Pudding and the Lamb Loin (Balsamic Soil, Beech Mushrooms, Sundried Tomatoes, Tarragon Powder). Presentation of the two dishes was excellent. The flavors of the lamb differ each time you pair the meat with the tarragon or balsamic but both were tasty.

The seventh dish was the 16hr Short Rib with Eggplant “Charcoal,” Sesame-chili Ash, V2 Sauce, Sriracha Fried Rice. The meat was tender and succulent. Taken with the eggplant, ash and rice flavored with hot sauce, the palate will encounter several layers of flavors and this was my personal choice for the top dish that night. Truly, excuse me, a great dish!

Perfect dessert to the “La Chaine-like” dinner was the Saffron made with White Chocolate Powder, Coffee Sponge and Caramelized Brittle.