Authentic Cantonese Cuisine

CEBU, Philippines — Cantonese cuisine is one the eight modern culinary arts of China.  It is the cooking of Guandong Province, especially in its provincial capital Guangzhou (Canton). Cantonese cuisine is the primary influence of Hong Kong cuisine, alongside British cuisine and other Chinese cuisines such as Hakka and Teochew.

Dim sum, a facet of Cantonese cuisine reached Cebu way back in 1969, instantly gaining popularity among Cebuanos, who found the food to be delicious, the service via the dim sum trolley quick, and the prices reasonable. In 1980, I travelled to Hong Kong with a Chinese friend in order to market Golden Apple Snail or “kuhol.” It was my first encounter with authentic Cantonese cuisine, the use of chopsticks in every meal and drinking endless cups of tea.

In 2008, I was invited to join a three-day Gourmet and Shopping Familiarization Tour with travel agents to Hong Kong by Cathay Pacific Cebu GM Eddie Kong. We visited restaurants like Yixin to taste authentic “old-style” Cantonese dishes (Baked Fish Guts, Fried Fresh Milk with Crabmeat) and Fung Lung Restaurant that served Cantonese Dishes of the 1960s and 1970s. That trip contributed tremendously to my knowledge about Chinese cuisine.

In 2003, Hai Shin Lou Seafood King Restaurant opened for business in Makati with a seating capacity of 280 people, with five private rooms. It became a popular destination for many taipans including Alfred V. Ty, vice-chairman at GT Capital and taipan of Federal Land including Marco Polo Plaza Hotel.

This year, Shin Lou Seafood Makati managing director Mr. Alejandro Tengco, Ramon Cojuanco and chairman Alfred Ty joined forces to open the Hai Shin Lou Cebu. Last August 8, select members of mainline and online journalists were invited to lunch at the restaurant that seats 200 persons with nine private dining rooms located at the ground level of Marco Polo Cebu.

Executive Chef King Kwong Chan (roast specialist), Dimsum Chef Moon Chao Lu and Wok Chef Raymond Hui prepared a tasting menu with 10 dishes. Fishes and other aquatic animals were freshly harvested from the tanks with live seafood located at the side of the entrance to the restaurant (bigger tanks were at the back!).

There were three hot dishes: Pork Siomai, Har Gaw or Steamed Shrimp Dumpling and Taro Puff; and two cold dishes: Barbecue Pork and Soyed Chicken).  I compared these dishes to what I ate in Hong Kong and all were definitely cooked the Cantonese way – savory, tender and low on salt. The only thing missing was the bright red colors of the Barbecue Pork because no red food coloring is used. Later, managing director Mr. Alejandro Tengco said MSG or “vetsin” is never allowed in Hai Shin Lou!

Three dishes followed: Steamed Live Shrimps, Fish Fillet with Home Made Bean Curd in Hot Pot & Fresh Crab Meat with Broccoli including Yang Chow Fried Rice. One taste dominated in all three dishes – the umani taste of freshly caught seafood! It brought memories to a market patronized by Hong Kong locals where one would find all types of fish and live animals, including frogs – and these animals would be sacrificed and cooked, excuse me, right in front of customers.

The desserts we had at Hai Shin Lou Cebu were Almond Jelly with Fruit Cocktail (fresh fruits only!) and Snow Balls.