Palawan's Southern Jewel

CEBU, Philippines — There is an island off the southernmost tip of Palawan that may exactly fit the fantasy of those looking to experience pristine nature. The place is a remote municipality comprised of 31 islands and islets, dotting the Sulu Sea between mainland Palawan and Borneo. Travel writer Edgar Alan Zeta-Yap, at the website www.eazytraveler.net, describes this faraway corner of the archipelago as a paradise that remains untouched by mainstream tourism.

It takes some time and inconvenience getting there, though. It takes 10 hours by van and boat to reach the place from the nearest commercial airport in Puerto Princesa. But, by Zeta-Yap’s description, it’s all worth it.

The place is Balabac, an island group that is foremost a biodiversity hotspot. It is known to be the only habitat of the highly endangered Philippine mouse-deer, known locally as “pilandok,” which are found on the bigger islands of Balabac, Ramos and Bugsuk. Endemic birds like the Philippine Cockatoo, the Palawan Hornbill and the Philippine Eagle also find home in Balabac.

Balabac Island itself has a piece of the country’s history: the Spanish-period lighthouse of Cape Melville, built in 1892 on the island’s southern end. The smaller islands in the group are in themselves a sight to behold. South Sea pearls are farmed there.

The few visitors that bother to go there are always in awe at the sight of deserted stretches of coastline dotted by quiet fishing villages and sandbars of powdery white sand. The sea is a vast expanse of emerald, sapphire and turquoise waters.

Zeta-Yap recommends Canimeran, Patawan, Punta Sebaring (on Bugsuk Island), Mansalangan, Caxisigan and Onuk (if caretakers permit) as must-visit places:

• Canimeran Island is beautiful island with lush rows of coconut trees. The locals call the island “Patongong Dos,” after the larger neighboring island of Patongong. The white sand has a mild tint of pink from naturally pulverized red corals.

• Patawan Island is an islet with low-lying greenery and sandbar, also with pink-tinted sand.

• Punta Sebaring (on Bugsuk Island) is located on the southernmost tip of Bugsuk Island, one of the larger islands. Punta Sebaring has an established campsite with solar-powered lights and a generator. The beach there has the finest powdery white sand, which stretches out into a long sandbar. The beach has both sunrise and sunset views. The downside, though, it’s infested with bloodsucking “nik-nik” or sand flies, which are most active at dawn and dusk. The “nik-nik” bites can remain very itchy for days.

• Mansalangan Sandbar is surrounded by vast expanse of turquoise water, the perfect place to swim in the crystal clear shallows.

• Onuk Island (Roughton Island) is the most well-known island in Balabac with an exclusive resort owned by the town mayor. The resort consists of stilted houses linked by a long boardwalk over a sandbar. The island is surrounded by vast turquoise shallows and fringed by well-preserved coral reef.

• Caxisigan Island is a circular island ringed by white sand. Its coral drop-offs offer great snorkeling spots. The locals call this island “Sicsican.”

Zeta-Yap advises that the best time to go island-hopping in Balabac is between March and October. The onset of the “amihan,” northeast monsoon, from November to February causes very rough seas. In terms of security, Zeta-Yap shares a warning for travelers:

“Due to Balabac’s proximity to rebel strongholds in the Sulu Archipelago, kidnappings and bombings perpetrated by separatist groups and/or political rivals have occurred a few times in the municipality. The region is also notorious for its piracy, smuggling, human trafficking (owing to its proximity to Borneo) and wildlife poaching. It is best to contact local guides beforehand to assess the current situation before embarking on a trip.”