Fashion combustion in Jakarta

CEBU, Philippines - The fashion tent is abuzz. The tai-tais are out in full force, and designer brands, both local and foreign, are conspicuously on display. Models scurry back and forth, and various stylists, photographers and make-up gurus run after them.  This is, after all, Jakarta Fashion Week.

On its ninth year, the widely successful event is now proud to host a stunning 86 fashion shows in seven days. Multiple venues have been commandeered for this purpose, and what's more, various diplomatic forces have been harnessed to make the annual shindig a smash success. The British, Thai, Swedish, Korean and Australian embassies have all sent delegations to the party, and various government ministers are on hand to collaborate.  The Indian fashion lobbyists even have several fashion shows locked in for itself.

Presiding over all of this is none other than fashion doyenne Svida Alisjahbana.   Proclaimed every year as one of Indonesia's most powerful women, Ibu Svida has patiently nursed this baby to the behemoth that it is now.  On opening day, Svida appeared as guest opinion writer for the Jakarta Post, with this pithy message:

"The real purpose of the JFW is to develop and boost the capacity of our designers.  This is an industry that serves as a great microcosm of the Indonesian nation. This is the field where our cultural legacy, diversity, and our creativity, entrepreneurialism, and, crucially, our freedom of expression, can take us to a global level."

With this missive to set the tone, it was all but obvious - this was going to be one helluva show.

First up to impress were the girl wonders Paulina Katarina, two gorgeous sisters with an extremely wearable Amalfi-inspired resort wear collection.  The spring palette of whites and eggshell and robin's egg blues was a refreshing sight for eyes sore from dreary angst-rooted creations by troubled wanna-be artistes (no names, please!).

That must have been the reason why the eponymous label was paired with Yelly, which likewise brought forth confidently wardrobed women in easter-white suits and smartly cut jackets. Cocktail dresses of daintily fluttering scraps were deftly woven into the collection, and gave it a softer, feminine touch.

Another designer, Milcah, likewise echoed the spring palette, although this particular collection was rooted in tie-dyed and air-breathing fabrics, with dashes of taupe and pink.

Speaking of resort, that must have been Rani Hatta's idea as well, but this time instead of an island destination, the designer focused on winter ski resorts. Lace-up boots and baseball caps punctuated the oversized cowls and swirly skirts, with metal hole detailing and silver rings that functioned as buttons finishing the look.  In a nod to the Muslim faith that underpinned the design house, unobtrusive hijab blended ever so smartly with the outfit.

Last year, I already mentioned the break out label BYO, and again this year, it did not disappoint.  BYO's highly coveted plastic purses were paired with cellophane creations, ranging from day separates to evening wear.  (I can still hear Svida gushing about the clutches.)

Riamiranda catered to the hijab-wearing community, paying attention to the soft layering and comfortable fabrics that must surely attract an audience seeking pretty, yet conforming.  Not so conforming was Moslem designer Jenahara Black Label, which may have shocked the more conservative audience members with the oblique references to bondage and the sweetly salacious lyrics of her soundtrack. Other audience members, however, were delighted with the severe black cut outs and graphic prints, and weren't afraid to show their gleeful support.

The last show for opening day was Tex Saveria, who showed drop dead gorgeous evening gowns literally and liberally dripping with pearls and crystals.  The exquisite workmanship and intricate detailing led one to think of Cary Santiago, with Cary's laser cutouts translated into baubles.

Over the next few days, Indian designers showed their flowing fabrics, Korean designers highlighted their cutting edge designs, and Sumatran designers showcased their region's artisanal industries. What a whirlwind, as we laughingly ran from one venue to the next.

There is a goal to all this hive of activity.  This isn't just about celebrating beauty or design or creativity.  While worthy goals in themselves, Svida has an altogether practical purpose to this worship of fashion. Svida wants to promote Indonesian talent to the world and she has ceaselessly sought a dialogue between the decision makers of the fashion world, the artisans underlying them, and the consumers that underpin their very existence. This U of M and Columbia graduate believes that ultimately, fashion designers have to have a viable, sustainable business, or else their talent will be for naught.  And without this sustainability, Indonesian fashion would be unable to compete in the global stage, and survive.

So all this is about hope and dreams. It is about vision.  Just as a fashion or accessories designer's collection is about bringing to life an artistic vision, JFW is about Svida's careful course-chartering for her fashion vision. Exactly what we need for our own directionless "industry," if we can even call it that.  One hopes the Philippines can learn from this, even as calls for a regional Southeast Asian fashion hub are, even now, being sounded in the fashion tents.

So where will the Philippines be?  Active at the forefront? Or being dragged along as laggards? When the spotlights switch on for the show, we should be there, on cue.