MM6 Maison Margiela

The recent gritty MM6 Maison Margiela runway presentation was a flashback to the industrial techno dens of London's subterranean club scene. In a cavernous corner east of the city, representatives of the MM6 collective wore anonymous white lab coats. The disruptive mood was cemented by the huge bank of analog recording equipment - a wall of sound, if you will - that formed the backdrop to this retro-futuristic warehouse party. As models took to the stage, they stopped to tinker with the equipment as if to create their own soundtrack to what was a hypnotic display. These club kids came well prepared for a long night - packing Coke cans, beers, and even plastic banana holders in their Perspex cross-body bags (how else to stylishly sustain an all-nighter?).

MM6 mainlined the chaos and creativity of post-gender club kids beautifully. This was an idea-packed show with more than one standout moment: There were eagle and equestrian prints, glitter-bombed fanny packs re-tooled as tops, and plastic bin liners fashioned into everything from a surprisingly elegant blouson to detachable pouf sleeves and a cerulean sundress. Ideas were pulled from not-so-distant eras, then re-appropriated and repeated. There was also a prettiness here (for both boys and girls) in the pink metallic Ziggy Stardust two-pieces, and sheer dresses in khaki and pale blue that tied at the neck with pussy bows. MM6, surely, is a place for its group of designers to have fun mining the dress-up box of recent history. But the models, with determinedly blank stares and hunched posture, resembled androids, giving fun a far-off feel. (vogue.com)