A Secret Named Concepcion

CEBU, Philippines – Not much is known or heard about Concepcion, a tiny coastal municipality in Iloilo Province. After all, as far as Western Visayas goes, all other beaches seem to be overshadowed by the darling of all Philippine beaches, Boracay.

But those who think Boracay is the Philippines’ most beautiful island paradise definitely haven’t been around that much – because, as far as scenery goes, Concepcion and the 16 islands and islets radiating from the natural harbor of Concepcion Bay exceed Boracay any time of the day, at any season.   There’s just one catch: Do not expect to party in Concepcion in the same way you expect to party and get wasted in Boracay.

Concepcion is one of those off-the-grid destinations, perfect for intrepid travelers. It is a remote little fishing town to put anyone in a deliciously lethargic, kick-off-your-shoes mood in drifting off to any of its private islands. Those whose time is limited are sure to find it difficult to choose which among Concepcion’s many islands to explore.

Even the wrath of the recent Typhoon Seniang has not been able to completely topple Concepcion. The usual bustle of its fish port, for instance, has quickly returned to normal. As the large outrigger slices through glassy aquamarine waters, one is treated to visual feast. For starters, there’s the town’s natural skyscraper, Mount Manaphag, a steep mountain rising from the Pan de Azucar island.

How to get there.

Domestic flights are available from different parts of the Philippines to Manila and Cebu, from where there are connecting flights to Iloilo City.   Direct flights to Iloilo are only available via the Manila, Cebu, Davao, and Cagayan de Oro hubs.

By land, if coming from Cebu, there are buses at the Cebu South Bus Terminal for Bacolod, from where to board a fast ferry for Iloilo City. Once in Iloilo, there are buses at the Tagbak Terminal in Jaro for Concepcion.  Another option is to take a bus from Cebu City to Toledo and then cross over to San Carlos City on the way to Bacolod. Slow boats from Manila or Cebu to Iloilo and vice versa are also available.

Those who choose to bring their own car may reach Iloilo province via roll-on-roll-off ports in Dumangas, Culasi, and Caticlan. Those coming in from Cebu and Negros are to take the Dumangas route.

As for our trip, we started in Iloilo City and took our cars with us. On the way, we stopped over at Ajuy, another town before Concepcion, where one of our office mates was from.   We spent a night there and feasted on seafood.

What to do.

Concepcion can actually be an easy day trip. But another option is to spend a night in one of its quaint little resorts – or in a tent on one of the private islands, of course with the permission of the town’s tourism office.

Our group walked around the town, and then for the rest of the day until sunset hopped to two of the private white-sand islands. We had a seafood picnic in the afternoon before plunging into the crystal-clear blue waters and lazed on the sand.

Those who only have time for a day trip shouldn’t miss these two islands:

Agho Island. It’s a privately-owned eight-hectare stretch of sugary white sand punctuated by rows of dwarfish coconut trees and a carpet of lush green crawlers with purple flowers. The island is small enough for a group of ten and a perfect place for soul-searching for one who decides to come alone. It lies in the middle part of the entire island system and has one of the most scenic backdrops – the town’s mountainous other islands, including a breathtaking view of Mt. Manaphag. The surrounding waters are usually calm from morning to early afternoon, just perfect for snorkeling.

Bulubadiangan Island. Perhaps the crown jewel of Concepcion’s 16-island network for its extensively long sandbar, the island’s sandbar is sandwiched between two opposing tides. When taking a stroll through the sandbar’s entire stretch, one can expect to be pulled here and there by opposing water currents.   There are only four cottages available on the island and most of the time one can feel like being the only person around.

The opposite side of Bulubadiangan’s sandbar is fringed by lush mangrove forest and farther off towards the horizon is a backdrop of Concepcion’s rugged mountain chains in varying shades of blue.   The island has the most scenic sunsets to witness, so the best time to be there is from mid-afternoon until dusk.

For a nice balance between lazing on the beach and a little bit of exercise, one may opt to take a trek to the summit of Mount Manaphag and including the Pan de Azucar island in the itinerary. It is quite a steep climb to the summit of Mount Manaphag, but the reward is a panoramic view of the entire island system.

Important Notes.

1. Since Concepcion is still a diamond in the rough, careful planning is needed in order to make the trip there as smooth as possible.   The visitor shall first get in touch with the town’s tourism office, which does all tour and boat arrangements.   It is advisable to contact them at least a week in advance, for them to have time to make preparations  (Mr. Augusto Familara’s mobile phone: 09306514876 and 09274833714; email: [email protected]).

2. Concepcion is much of a do-it-yourself arrangement. So one is good to pack his own lunch and snacks. Some of the islands, like Bulubadiangan, have open cottages where to grill the seafood brought from the town proper.

3. It’s good to be in Concepcion as early as six a.m., to have more time to thoroughly enjoy the place. Also, the burst of light at sunrise is really something for a postcard.

4. To a certain extent, Concepcion is still recovering from the damage of latest typhoon, so the underwater garden in certain places may not yet be in full life and there may not be much to see when snorkeling.   Better, instead, to enjoy the islands by either swimming or simply lazing around in the sand.

5. Taking shells and sand from any of the islands is prohibited. But pictures are okay to take.

Wrap-up. The seeming absence of amenities in Concepcion and its islands are the same qualities that make it endearing.   Visiting the place strikes me as a trip back in time when many of the Philippines’ beaches – Boracay included – were quiet, secluded, secret, untouched.

But now that the word is out about Concepcion, the challenge is how to keep this little piece of paradise as it is.