The Exquisite Spanish Cuisine

CEBU, Philippines - Ignacio Perez-Cambra, Charges d'Affaires ad interim of the Embassy of Spain and First Secretary and Deputy Head of Mission of the Embassy of the Philippines, welcomed friends and guests with the slicing of the Spanish ham. He was assisted by Marco Polo Cebu GM Hans Hauri, Honorary Consul of Spain Anton Perdices, and Guest Chef Gema Pido, Cebu's authority on Spanish

cuisine. The occasion was the "Sabores de Espana,"

celebrated by Marco Polo Plaza Cebu on July 10, the eighth such celebration by the hotel.

His Excellency explained that there are four reasons behind the worldwide popularity of Spanish cuisine: politics, soil, talent and time. It was politics that led to the discovery of the Philippines by Magellan in 1521. In fact, the world was divided between two contending superpowers at that time, Spain and Portugal, as a result of the Treaty of Tordesillas. Pope Alexander VI set the dividing line. Spain had the exclusive rights to everything west of that line; the east belonged to Portugal.

Soil produced the supplies to the kitchen, including crops from the newly discovered lands like potatoes, tomatoes, peppers and chocolate. Talent meant the collective accumulation of kitchen skill. Spanish cuisine had plenty of time to evolve to perfection since Hispania began during the Roman Rule in 200 B.C.

In Cebu today, the Spanish Food Festival is the most awaited episode in Marco Polo's Culinary Journey series.

Select members of Cebu's media had the wonderful opportunity to taste some of Spain's culinary evolution. The festival opened with the traditional tapas. The following were served: "Boquerones en Vinagre," "Croquetas de Pollo y Jamon," "Aceitunas Tortillas de Patatas," the ubiquitous "Jamón Serrano," and my favourite tapas that night, the "Pimentos Rellenos" (red peppers stuffed with tuna).

These were only the opening fares, and then a few steps led us to the tables for the 10-course dinner! Salad was the "Melon, Chorizo and Artichoke Salad" while the soup was an old acquaintance, "Sopa Cachorreña" or the Seville Orange Soup (served in the 7th "Sabores de España"), very refreshing and very tasty.

The "Fabadas" (Beans &Chorizo Casserole) came next, followed by my favorite that night, the "Sizzling Gambas." This is a very common tapa but the version the Marco Polo Chefs prepared that night was truly exceptional. We had Sorbet called "Naranja & Fennel with Saffron Threads," and the main course was a duo of "Anec Amb Peres" (Spiced Duck with Pears) and the "Lengua Estofado con Setas" (Braised Ox Tongue), while the waiters dished out the "Seafood Paella."

While the desserts - "Orange Cardamom Ice Cream," "Brazo de Mercedes," "Leche Frita" and Marco Polo's homemade "Turones" - were served, I pondered on how simple food evolves into something really fine. Some exquisite dishes like the "Paella Valenciana" began as fairly simple dishes; and I wonder whether this humble Cebuano Pasil signature food called "Tuslob-Buwa" will later evolve to a dish served in haute cuisine and called, excuse me, "Fondue de Cebu"?  (FREEMAN)