Raising the Standards a Notch Higher

CEBU, Philippines - The International Culinary Arts Academy Cebu (Don Gervacio Quejada St., Guadalupe, phones (6332) 4125241, 256-0461; www.icaac.net), the first professional culinary arts school in Cebu City,  was established by Chef Jeremy Young in 2002 to produce highly skilled graduates in the culinary arts.

Graduating second year students of the ICAAC are required to prepare a final culminating dinner in "An Evening of Food and Wine." It was in June 2003 that these dinners began and, every year, your favorite food reviewer has witnessed, courtesy of Dean Jeremy Young, the constant reinventions of food appearances, flavors and textures.

Last Wednesday May 28, it was time for batch 2014 student chefs to reveal their kitchen proficiency; a ten-course dinner was prepared and with the opening of the Vino Spumante, Santero, Brut signaled that the culinary show was ready. The first three courses were as follows: Russian Ossetra Caviar, Red Radish, Celery & Cream Cheese, the Foie Gras de Canard, Congee, Egg and the House Made Vanilla Bourbon Bacon, Pineapple, Brie.

The second dish intrigues me because fattened duck liver is a Western ingredient but congee or lugaw is Asian, so how can these two opposites come to terms with each other? The liver's exterior was surprisingly crisp and its decadent rich flavor was a perfect match with the bland soggy rice base. Very nice!

The next wine, the Rocca dei Bottari, Passerina Status Colli Aprutini Italia 2012  was then served followed by the soup or what was supposed to be soup, the Porcini Mushroom, Shimeji Mushroom, Parmesan, Walnut. This is soup deconstructed, following the principles of molecular gastronomy using science to reinvent food.  Strip the mushrooms and cheese to its basic flavors, eat the walnut and you have a really delicious world-class offering.

A sorbet that followed, the Green Mango, Shrimp Paste Granite and Rock Sugar was another happening where East meets West and the humble bagoong is now an ingredient for Haute Cuisine. Very creative!

A red wine, the Di Marco, Primitivo di Manduria DOP, Italia 2010 was uncorked followed by the next three dishes: Chilean Sea Bass, Prawn, Scallop, Saffron Arancini &Tomato, Marget de Canard, Watermelon, Endive, Licorice & Balsamic followed by the US Wagyu Beef, Root Beer, Vanilla, Baby Carrot, Haricot Vert. 

A second sorbet was prepared, the Raspberry, Rose Water and Cherry Sorbet and if my beloved readers could view the picture, it looks like a circus act. The frozen sorbet is held by a horizontal stick and it drips down on the fruit below. I was mesmerized, excuse me, by this arrangement and I waited till the sorbet fell before I ate it. Wonderful!!

Two dessert presentations were staged as a fitting end to this gastronomic odyssey. A plated dessert called the Chilled Apple Celery Soup with Brownie Hazelnut Ravioli, Pistachio Water & Chocolate Golden Sphere with Berry Compote, and Vanilla Ice Cream & Hot Caramel Syrup had a rather long name. You pour the cup of hot liquid over the sphere which will collapse and eat the mix and water it down with the chilled soup.

In the Dessert Buffet Presentation, there were six goodies to select from, the Fresh Strawberry Tartlettes, White Chocolate & Peanut Butter Mamon, Butter Truffles Quenelles, Salted Caramel Viennen Stich, Ube Langka Macaroons and my favorite, the Lemon Custaroon which is a creamy flan topped with a buttery crust.

Congratulations to all the ICAAC graduates! (FREEMAN)