Fine Dining – Its Glorious Past and Wonderful Present

CEBU, Philippines - Food has always played a great role in the history and culture of a country. In the Philippines, for example, as soon as Emilio Aguinaldo had taken his oath of office as President of the First Philippine Republic in Malolos, an inaugural banquet was held, on January 23, 1899. European dishes were served and the menu was written in French. It was a declaration that we were indeed a cultured people because we know how to dine and wine according to the standards of western civilization.

The appetizers served were oysters, prawns, Lyon sausages and salmon with Hollandaise sauce. The main dishes were Abati depaulet a la Tagale (adobo), Stuffed Turkey with Truffle a la Manilloise, Mutton Chops, Beef a la Chateaubriand. Desserts included cheeses and ice cream. At the time, huge blocks of ice were harvested from Lake Wenham in Boston and businessman Frederic Tudor shipped it all over the world including Manila.

The best parties of the 19th century Philippines were held in the town of Sulipan, Pampanga. Sulipan chefs mastered European culinary techniques and prepared grand  feasts for visiting dignitaries, including the Grand Duke Alexis of Russia (as recorded in “The Inhabitants of the Philippines” by Frederic Sawyer, 1900). Such entertainment required quite a budget, but the rich in Sulipan were so rich, according to Chef Gene Gonzalez, that to be born with a “silver spoon in one’s mouth” were an insult because their silverware were, excuse me, made of solid gold.

The tradition of fine dining continues to this day with an organization called the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs. It has 25,000 members in 70 countries and this International Association of Gastronomy has brought amateurs and professionals together, people who share similar values of quality, fine dining and the pleasures of the table.

In Cebu, the branch of La Chaine is called Bailliage de Cebu, under the leadership of Amparito L. Lhuillier, Bailli de Cebu. Last March 22, 2014, the group celebrated its 21st Induction Gala Diner Amical at the Marco Polo Cebu with the theme “Paris in the Spring Time.”

Unlike the Malolos menu, the Chaine menu was written both in French and English. During the formal dinner, appetizers, soup, seafood dish, sorbet (selected for its palate cleansing effect), main dish with meats, cheese and fruits, and then desserts were served. Wines are carefully selected to go with each dish so that the two would complement each other.

All the dishes that were served are shown here and we do have our favorites; the soup (Quail, Duck and Pigeon with Saffron Glaze, Duck confit and Quail egg) paired with Domaine des Grandes Esperances, France 2011 and the seafood entréeChilean Sea Bass with braised endive, rhubarb, grapes and fish pearls – served with La Petite Perriere Sauvignon Blanc France 2011 – were simply outstanding.

Every year, two formal and three casual dinners are held and most often, the dishes served are the trend setters in the food industry. And your favorite food columnist is sure to feature these in The Freeman Lifestyle for the reading pleasure of his beloved followers.

Initiates to fine dining will encounter many problems like what clothes to wear, which silverware to use, what glasses to fill and what to discuss with your immediate seatmates. Luckily, we freshman residents in the U.P. Diliman campus way back in 1967, were taught the correct manners and conduct in fine dining and we had one formal dinner with then U.P. President Carlos Romulo. Perhaps one day, you will have your turn to be seated in a formal setting and if you have questions, do not be afraid to ask. People will always be willing to assist you in the Arts of the Table. (FREEMAN)