Coming to America?

CEBU, Philippines - The only way to know that David Ugarte speaks good Cebuano is to start a conversation with him: yes, the weather would be a strike, or the ideal jogging hours he never attained, the government, the policies, the beer, the steak. Or the last meal he had on this particular day: "Dili na lang gyud ko maghuna-huna sa akong gi-kaon kay maguol ko – I haven't exercised lately."

Waiting for me over lunch at his restaurant, Tex Rex, David had a quick conference with the staff before joining me. Judging by how he looked – a medium-built man with American features, wearing white long sleeves and jeans – I mentally composed meet-and-greet starters in English, so I could somehow keep up with the great American twang, a skill I am less familiar of.

 "Mangaon na ta!" he broke in my thoughts.

 "Oh, sure," I replied, trying out my new natural American accent.

But even if you do not speak with the owner and just pass by the restaurant on A.S. Fortuna in Mandaue City, you will have an impression that an expat have probably established a business of his favorite briskets, barbecues, or roasts famous in the United States. David is Cebuano. However, here, labels do not matter, or accents for this matter. The name represents two opposing cultures that go together: food inspired by American cuisine.

 In fact, you can begin with anything on the menu. I started with the Barbecue Ribs with Plain Rice before the appetite enhancing Japanese Cucumber Salad. Or perhaps, I could've eaten the Angus Beef an entire meal with just Coke.

The T-Rex BBQ Burger Cheese Buster could be your snack choice, but the order would be enough for lunch. I sliced mine into two. I savored it slowly, like Audrey Hepburn dining in public. But had it been at home, I'd devoured it like a truck driver.

Nothing was as irresistible as the Beef Brisket Meal, which is prepared for 10 hours and smoked by burning oak wood. Would you ever suspect that Kansas City Sugar and Spice Spareribs has arrived in Cebu?

Oh, sandwiches complete the list of Western culinary methods: Bar-B-Q Roast Chicken or the Pulled Pork. You can have a little Italian flare if you order the Meatballs with Mozzarella. Combos are perfect for lunch dates such as the Quarter Pardner (one half ribs plus one fourth chicken).

  "I've tried everything here, and I could not resist," David said. "Mu-suway ko’g jog karo'ng hapon."

I was about to put my fork to rest until he offered something.

  "Dessert here, Apple Crumble."

 I should have refused it, but with how it is baked, "yes" would seem to be the only English word considered a complete thought in the presence of such a delicious offering.   (FREEMAN)