Leading man

CEBU, Philippines - I thought I’ve spoken too many cuss words that one tablespoon of sisig has already burned my tongue—oh, as atonement for my sins?—in chili spice.

“Chef, the sisig is too spicy. Is it really prepared this way?” television executive Karla Fernandez, who is sitting across me, tells Chef Sau del Rosario who was stationed nearby.

He looks concerned, saying “I’m so sorry!” He headed for the cooking area and from our view, he was preparing it again.

For someone who came from Michelin Restaurant Le Divellic in Paris, redoing the night’s menu in the middle of the second anniversary soiree of Bluewater Panglao in Bohol was too modest. Not to mention, he was invited as the resort’s celebrity chef of the Northern Exposure 2013, a culinary occasion that enabled the locals to taste famous dishes in Luzon.

I kept silent, pretending to be undisturbed. If he was a snob, I didn’t care. The Maya-maya Mayonesa tasted so delightful, together with his original Chicken Galantina with Jackfruit Compote.

If he ever said sorry to us again, I could easily forgive him. I’ve got a burning tongue, not a broken spirit: one glass of white wine  already reduced the sensation.

Pass the fish, please. Del Rosario sure had magic up his toque, especially on how he handled the freshness of the Villa Rellenong Bangus.

Tongues out now: My favorite dish of the night was a quartet of callos, lengua, mushroom, and corn. Or I could set my heart for the Pork Bagnet with Paella and the Salt-crusted Salmon with Salsa Verde, and then start a devotion to his take on the lacquered duck, the adobo with boiled egg, and the Lamb Shank Tagine with Tabbouleh.

I know desserts are taken after the main course in a polite society, but for that night, I was all about the desserts (Brazo de Ube, Durian Cheese Cake, Tibok-tibok, Poached Apple in St. Julienne) eaten in any part of the meal—with red wine, yes. TURN TO NEXT PAGE...

Amid his intensive European and Asian influences – Restaurant L’univers, Equinox, Luna – his Filipino sense hasn’t waned. “I want to promote Filipino cuisine, especially the Pampanga region where I dwelled, so that the next generation would be equally proud of our own cuisine,” del Rosario explained.

His homecoming has given birth to establishing his own restaurants in Manila: M Café, Chelsea, Madison Grill, Le Bistro Vert, Toro, and the recently launched Villa Café. You see, he clasps every opportunity that falls into his hands. He has appeared on television as the host of shows like The Secrets of the Masters, Healthy Cravings, Kitchen Battles, and Sarap to Heart.

Finally, del Rosario returned to our table, delivering another plate of his self-developed Sisig with Foie Gras.

“I am so sorry. There were too many spices in it,” he bows his head like a monk. He waits for us to taste it again. “How is it now?”

I was shy to comment. But perfect, I say to myself—the spice was now subtle that I could taste the pork and the pork liver.

All of us approved. “It’s my pleasure to cook for you,” he said gently and disappeared into a crowd of diners.

“I will tell my husband (basketball star Ramon Fernandez)that Sau has cooked for me,” Karla shared while updating everything on Facebook, asking me to photograph her with the chef every now and then.

Although seeming aloof at first glance, del Rosario is comfortable with strangers and always has a ready smile for the camera. In fact, he could pass as a movie star—svelte, toned, tanned, towering at six feet

You are looking at the Piolo Pascual of the culinary world.

“I dearly love my husband, but I’d like to call Sau my boyfriend just to keep the mood up for everyone. I mean, we don’t want to be too serious here,” Karla winked at me.

“He isn’t your type, right?” (FREEMAN)