Let’s taste Peranakan

CEBU, Philippines - In the last five years that I have been going annually to Malaysia, I have developed a taste for Peranakan cuisine. Peranakan is a recognized sub-culture in the straits settlements of Singapore, Penang and Malacca (along the Straits of Malacca). The Peranakans are of Chinese and Malay ancestry who have become affluent through leadership in commerce and industry, and well-educated. The male was addressed as “baba” and the female as “nyonya,” Indian derived words reminiscent of how they were called by the Indian sentries of their ancient manors.

I have always regarded Baba-Nyonya or Peranakan cuisine as essentially Chinese, with a marked Malay twist, meaning chili-spicy! Being a non-spicy eater, I have learned how to deal with spicy food – put it immediately to the back of your mouth and chew from there.  The bite will not be as stinging as the spicy taste buds are at the front of the tongue.  Also, try to squeeze out the sauce or juice from the food, or scrape off all the red things before you put it into your mouth. DO NOT drink a cold drink to alleviate the spicy sting, but take milk or a milky drink.  It really works!

For our first meal in Malacca, our guide Nelson Ng took us not to the usual touristy place but to a popular local place – Restoran Atlantic 1 (Nyonya Baba Food) 78 Jalan Portugis. We had our fill of authentic Peranakan homestyle cooking and my immediate favorite was the non-spicy omelet made quite savory by the fresh shrimp fry (their version of our hipon) filling. Also note-worthy was the home-made tofu and the semi-spicy plump prawns ; the “pompano”-like or pomfret fish rendang and the chicken rendang were red-hot spicy!  The durian chendol (their version of our halo-halo) I savored much later salved my steaming taste buds.

Our dinner was at a non-aircon eatery with a long line of patrons even at an early hour. We were squeezed to a tiny table by the owner Low Yong Cheng, who challenged us that we will eat for free if we beat the recorded highest bbq sticks diner. Capitol Satay – the only one/original restaurant! – has a wall filled up with photos of its celebrity diners, including Jackie Chan. 41 Lorong Bukit Cina. Despite the huge Australian scallops, prawns, imported beef bbq, shellfish, etc. placed at our table, we could not even achieve half of the points of the winning diner. Besides, the boiling satay pot into which we dipped and cooked our skewered food, was getting chili spicy each time they refilled it. (Phew!) Our stomachs could not accommodate any dessert after our satay feast.

Let me share a tofu recipe that is absolutely delicious and easy to prepare:

Tauhu Goreng (Stuffed Tofu)

4 blocks firm tofu, about 1 lb.

tsp. salt

250 ml. (1 cup) oil

50 gms. (1 cup) bean sprouts

90 gms (1/2 cup) singkamas, finely shredded

60 gms (1/2 cup) cucumber, finely shredded

chili sauce

2 red finger chillies, deseeded

1 clove garlic, peeled

tsp. salt

tbsp. sugar

1 & a half tbsp. water

1 tbsp. white vinegar

1 tbsp. tomato ketchup

 1) Halve tofu diagonally, dry gently w/paper towel. Sprinkle salt over tofu. Set aside.

2) Prepare chili sauce:  grind chillies, garlic, salt and sugar in a blender.  Add water, vinegar and tomato ketchup. Grind until smooth. Place in a serving bowl.

3) Heat oil in a wok over medium heat and gently fry the tofu pieces until crisp and golden brown (about 4 mins.) Drain on paper towels. When cool to handle, cut a horizontal slit into the side of the tofu to form a pocket.  Set aside.

4) Blanch bean sprouts in a pan of boiling water for 10 mins. Drain and put under running tap water. Toss the bean sprouts, singkamas and cucumber together in a big bowl.

5) Stuff each tofu pocket with the mixed vegetables. Serve.

6) Or, you can dice the tofu and scatter the mixed vegetables on top to come up with a salad

7) Serve the chili sauce at the side.

Serves 4

Preparation time: 20 minutes

Cooking time: 15 minutes