Bicol Bites Part 1

CEBU, Philippines - The prominent use of gata (coconut milk) and chili peppers, especially siling labuyo (native chili) in most dishes is its winning trademark, setting Bicolano cuisine apart from other cuisines in the country.

My recent trip to Bicolandia as per invitation of Marco Polo Plaza Hotel Cebu was a gustatory journey and an extensive intro to the region’s kitchen stellar grubs that have placed the entire region in the tourism map.

Here are a few bites to tickle your fancy for anything hot, spicy and very Bicolano:

Pinangat. The region’s signature vegetable dish is Pinangat (akin to laing yet with meat or seafood for added flavor), shredded taro leaves (gabi), – the star ingredient – mixed with tiny shrimps or dried/smoked fish or pork, seasoned with ginger, garlic and chilies wrapped in taro leaves and tied with coconut leaves, simmered in kakang gata (coconut milk).

No one does this delectable viand better than the folks from Camalig, Albay, hence touted as the town’s famous household delicacy. Ronaldo “Dad” Nicesario’s, Go Negosyo’s Outstanding Pinangat Maker 2011, pinangat is by far the best! He uses taro leaves that only grows at the foot of Mayon Volcano, where the soil is rich in minerals and where there’s ample water supply; and coconuts from Bicol because of their “sweeter” taste. 

Inulukan is a pinangat variety only stuffed with mixed crab meat.

Bicol Express. Another popular dish to heat up the palate is Bicol Express: sautéed chili fingers with shrimp paste, coco cream and pork. Unlike most BEs served in Cebu which are too saucy, the classic beer match that Bicolanos are accustomed to is simmered in a thick sauce with an uber spicy kick. Best eaten with rice!  

The 13-year-old Dad’s Special Pinangat Restaurant along the national highway, is an unpretentious eatery that is frequented by travelers and balikbayans for their take-out pre-cooked pinangat, inulukan and Bicol Express that last for three months when frozen.

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Marcasotes is a sponge cake like pianono sans the filling, baked in huge claypots over firewood. This dessert made from eggs, flour, sugar and vanilla is usually served during special occasions and festivals, paired with hot chocolate drink (sikwate).

Kinalas. Along Corregidor street in Brgy. Dayangdayang in the Penafrancia capital of Naga City, is a dilapidated house turned into a carenderia named Tya Kamot. This is where you find the all-time noodle soup favorite, Kinalas. It’s a combination of beef bone marrow broth, thick sauce of beef brains, fall-off-the-bones tender beef meat and mami noodles, sprinkled with fried garlic bits and chopped leeks. Concoct a sauce of vinegar+fish sauce (patis)+chilies+salt to be added to the noodle soup, and you’re ready to gulp down this hearty noodle soup for P25 only per bowl.

Pili, Chili, Tinutong (toasted rice) and Malunggay. Bizarre ice cream flavors. 1st Colonial Grill in Daraga, Albay earned its popularity because of these homemade ice cream flavors. The chili ice cream for one, is a personal favorite. It is surprisingly subtle with a hint of spiciness in it.

DJC Halohalo in Albay is a homegrown dessert with a different take on the usual halohalo, that takes pride in its finely shaved ice and rich, milky taste due to the liberal amount of shaved cheese on top.

Pili Nut Cappuccino at La Mia Tazza in Embarcadero, Legazpi is a coffeenut’s quick fix.

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This is just a foretaste to Marco Polo’s Bicol food fest come April 20 to 29 at Café Marco where diners will be treated to a spread of authentic regional dishes.

Next week: Let’s hop from one restaurant to another and savor their Bicolano specialties.

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Cebu Pacific Air offers the most number of domestic and international flights out of Cebu for the lowest year-round fares. Book any of its direct daily Cebu-Legazpi flights for as low as P1,288. Go to www.cebupacificair.com or call (032) 230-8888 for more details. (FREEMAN)