Great cuisines of the world part two: France

French cuisine is second of my favourite cuisines and a long time ago, I wanted to cook some French dishes. Unfortunately in the sixties, authentic French ingredients were not available. To prepare stock, soup and stews, you need the bouquet garni, a bundle of fresh herbs like thyme, parsley and bay leaf including some vegetables like carrots, leek and celeriac. Carrots ra gyud was available at that time!

I am a follower of Doreen Fernandez and she once described French cuisine: “the standard, and anyone seriously interested in good food strives to learn about, experience, and taste it.” (Tikim: Essays on Philippine Food and Culture). So I followed the advice of Ms. Doreen, taste na lang instead of cooking and in the Christmas of 1974, I had a full course French dinner at the Au Bon Vivant, the first restaurant in Manila to serve authentic French cuisine.

In 1993, I joined the La Chaine des Rotisseurs, an international gastronomic society dedicated to the art of fine dining. Finally, I had access to French cuisine without leaving Cebu. And if we really compare the quality of the French dishes served in Cebu compared to those that I have eaten in France (terribly expensive!), the dishes served during the Chaine dinners are definitely better.

Today, access to French cuisine has become relatively easier. The Marco Polo Plaza Cebu (www.marcopolohotels.com, phone 253-1111) has become the regular destination of guests who want to immerse in French culture and indulge in its culinary traditions these last five years. When you have a most generous patron like the Honorary French Consulate in Cebu, you can be assured that this activity will continue for a very long time.

The centerpiece of the celebration is the Fête de Beaujolais Gourmand or the uncorking ceremony of the Beaujolais Nouveau 2011; it all began when a wine produced from the Rhône-Alpes region was marketed by Georges Duboeuf and it became a race to bring the first bottles of the new wine to Paris and later the rest of the world. 

And with wine, you need good French food and again as usual, your favorite food columnist had to taste it twice: lunch, during the opening the French Food Fest at the Café Marco and dinner the next day at the Soiree Beaujolais 2011.

The following were the dishes that I have tasted: Coq Au Vin, Chicken Casserole, Ratatouille, Boeuf à la Bourguignonne, Cream Dory Sole Meunier, Couscous au Mouton a l’Algeroise (Mutton Couscous Algerian Style) and Quiche Lorraine (Bacon Pie). Le Negre (Flourless Chocolate Cake), Saint Honore Cream Puffs and the Pithivers (Puff Pastry with Almond Fillings) were some of the desserts I have tried, ahem, this year. I also tasted the new wine: one glass here and then another glass there but ultimately went back to my old favourite, the Champagne Lhuillier Brut.

And during these two events, the best dish I have tried was the Bouillabaisse (Rich Provencal Fish Stew). Truly a magnificent dish! In Marsielle, it would cost “fish set menu (42 euros) and the soup (46 euros)” or about 5,100 pesos, sabaw pa na.

Added attraction to this year’s event were the Cancan Girls of Le Centre des Ateliers de Danse de Figeac. They were a sight for sore eyes…even if your eyes are really not that sore. I wonder how H.E. Ambassador of France to the Philippines Thierry Borja de Mozota felt that night seeing the best of French culture celebrated; excuse me, even in this little corner of the globe.