CEBU, Philippines - In the mood for a culinary journey that is Hokkien? Lau Hock Kian will take you there.
Nestled along the bustling Banilad (at the Foodland building) area, Lau Hock Kian Restaurant, which translates to old (lau) natives of Fujian, China (hock kian), serves traditional Hokkien cuisine prepared by an experienced Malaysian chef, Loi Lee, whose expertise in Fujian cuisine is truly remarkable.
I was introduced to this restaurant through Mr. Pua Tong Aik of Taitong Seafoods Steamers (refer to June 14, 2011 issue of this section), also a Chinese restaurant along AS Fortuna, Mandaue, who is a friend of Chef Loi. He prepares the meals while Mr. Pua describes the must-tries as they queued on our table:
Fish Maw Soup is sundried eel bladder soup. According to Mr. Pua, a fish maw is a luxury ingredient in Chinese cuisine. Because they’re using deep dried fish maw, they had to soak it first in water before simmering. The eel crisps are the main ingredient of this thick soup mixed with mushroom, egg, black dry mushroom, rice wine and ground pork, seasoned with black vinegar and pepper, and sprinkled with chopped spring onions. Just like eating shark fin soup, add black vinegar when necessary. I’m reminded of eating Iloilo’s steaming hot Ted’s Batchoy with pork rind or chicharon in it. This soup is understandably expensive because of the rare supply of the main ingredient. Most Chinese restaurants offer this for more than P300 while Lau Hock Kian serves this in two sizes: P280 good for three to four pax and P450 for a bigger group. This is so every diner can taste a “luxury” soup that is mostly served during special occasions such as weddings and birthdays.
The Hokkien menu predominantly has soup choices such as abalone and shark fin soups, as well as the zero cholesterol sea cucumber. Duck with Sea Cucumber Hotpot is on the healthier side. Typically prepared during a festive season such as the Chinese New year, this soup, according to Mr. Pua, is another “high-end” soup because a kilo of sea cucumber is pegged at P4,500!
Hock Kian Kikiam is ground lean pork with carrots, and turnip, then seasoned with soy paste, spring onions and select spices. These are wrapped in bean curd sheets (tawpe) and deep fried till golden brown. Flavor is mild, not too salty. Dip it in a special sauce and you’ll grab more of those bite-sized kikiam.
Humba – Unlike our local humba, Hokkien-style slow braised pork stew isn’t too sweet at all. These succulent pork belly slices were definitely not marinated in Sprite. It goes with six homemade cua pao, steamed white dough that resembles the siopao sans the filling. Unfold the buns and place pork slices with a little sauce inside, then refold and take a bite! And yes, it’s still comfort food!
Singapore Chicken Rice – Poached sliced yellow-skinned Hong Kong chicken breast (since they eat corn) served over good quality rice cooked in flavorful chicken stock. Sauces are homemade, chili and ginger. If you prefer something unfussy and light yet bursting in flavors, the chicken rice is worth the tab.
Okra with Special Sauce tickles the palate with its tanginess and spicy kick. Looks can be deceiving and with this dish, it appears ordinary yet it tastes surprisingly delish. Young/baby okras are sautéed in a special sauce that Chef Loi refused to share. This becomes “localized” with the addition of fried dried fish/bolinao, making it truly interesting. Whichever you consider this, appetizer or main dish, just dig in! Mr. Pua recommends this as a perfect beer-match.
Hock Kian Noodles to me is birthday noodles. Rich in ingredients such as the Fukien noodles (lomi), shrimp, pork, veggies, halaan/clams and guess what, fried pork fat, Hock Kian Noodles is a meal in its own. Its thick savory sauce is its main draw!
Lau Hock Kian is open from 10am to 2:30pm; and 5pm to 10pm daily. (FREEMAN)