Surreal Cuisine, Strange Yet Wonderful

“Beyond Imagination, A Taste of the Surreal” was the theme of the 18th Induction Diner Amical of the largest gastronomic society in the world, the Confrerie de la Chaine des Rotisseurs and we are recognized internationally since the Philippines has two branches called baillage in Cebu and Manila. Venue of the induction was the Waterfront Cebu City Hotel & Casino last March 17 and the question on every member's mind was “how would surreal cuisine taste?”

All over the world, changes have been made in restaurants and chefs have been reinventing food. Chefs get bored including Waterfront Executive Chef Alessio Loddo, Sous Chef Allan Chan and Pastry Chef Gabriel Garcia; so familiar dishes are been "deconstructed and reconstructed, flavors layered". We can call this "culinary surrealism, in honor of the painters who grew tired of faithfully copying what the eye saw." And that night, the gourmands were ready for this culinary revolution.

The Aperitif called Tanguy’s Cheeses: served with Dried Fig, Honey and Balsamic Reduction was not an appetizer. In most formal dinners, cheeses are usually served toward the end of the meal but tonight, everything seems surreal.

Second dish was Kahlo’s Prey, Poached and Roasted Tenderloin of Veal stuffed with Black Truffle and Mushroom Duxelle accompanied with Torchon au Foie Gras, Baby Vegetables, Polenta and Bone Marrow Jus. Duxelle means finely chopped mushrooms, torchon is the cloth used to warp the foie gras (fatty liver) and polenta is mais numero katorse which used to be the basic staple for many Cebuanos. The first two dishes were paired with a red wine, Sylvian Fessy Cotes du Rhone 2007.

The latter dish reminds me of surrealist Mexican artist, Frida Kahlo, who was featured in a film, Frida staring Salma Hayek rated R for sexuality/nudity and I am sure many of my beloved followers have not seen this film because parental consent is required.

Sorbet was Ode To Magritte made with Lemon and Rose and the presentation drew applause from the diners. Such cheers that spring spontaneously from the La Chaine members during dinner are very, excuse me, rare occurrences. The Chef drew his inspiration from the painting of René François Magritte, "The Man in the Bowler Hat". If you have seen the movie, The Thomas Crown Affair, starring Pierce Brosnan with Rene Russo, you know what I mean.

Rene’s Catch, Pan-roasted Sea Bass with Artichoke-Mascarpone Ravioli Tomato Confit and Light Caviar Sauce was then served paired with Rovert Mondavi White Zinfadel 2009. There are three surreal artists named Rene: Rene Schute, Rene Crevel and Rene Duvillier and I do not know which artist inspired the chef. But one is sure, that the combination of sea bass with the caviar sauce made such a delectable impression in my palate and in your favourite food columnist opinion, this was the best dish that night.

 Soup was A Dali Concoction: Double Consommé of Beef with Vegetable Pearls and this was quickly followed by the The Color Wheel of Max Ernest: Watermelon and Prawn Salad with Spicy Avocado Mousse paired with the Pouilly Fume Loire Valley 2007.

Final dish was the dessert; Miro’s Mirth: a Cheesecake, Roasted Peach, Caramel Brûlée and Maracaibo Chocolate Mousse with Granola Base in a Peach Caramel Brûlée Cone. The artist, Miró i Ferrà had a great interest in automation and is known for his works like the Harlequin's Carnival, Landscape and Blue. Pastry Chef Gabby Garcia was probably inspired by the latter when he sculptured and colored the chocolate wheel in this particular shade of blue.

And because everything was surreal that night, the dessert was paired with champagne, Moet et Chandon Brut Imperial. Much later, a fellow hotelier made a remark about the Diner Amical, "very talented fellow, this Marco".

Lenten Diet: 

FISH TACOS

Ingredients

1 cup all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons cornstarch

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 egg

1 cup beer

1/2 cup plain yogurt

1/2 cup mayonnaise

1 lime, juiced

1 jalapeno pepper, minced

1 teaspoon minced capers

1/2 teaspoon dried oregano

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon dried dill weed

1 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper

1 quart oil for frying

1 pound cod fillets, cut into 2 to 3 ounce portions

1 (12 ounce) package corn tortillas

1/2 medium head cabbage, finely shredded

Directions

1. To make beer batter: In a large bowl, combine flour, cornstarch, baking powder and salt. Blend egg and beer, then quickly stir into the flour mixture (don't worry about a few lumps).

2. To make white sauce: In a medium bowl, mix together yogurt and mayonnaise. Gradually stir in fresh lime juice until consistency is slightly runny. Season with jalapeno, capers, oregano, cumin, dill and cayenne.

3. Heat oil in deep-fryer to 375 degrees F (190 degrees C).

4. Dust fish pieces lightly with flour. Dip into beer batter, and fry until crisp and golden brown. Drain on paper towels. Lightly fry tortillas; not too crisp. To serve, place fried fish in a tortilla, and top with shredded cabbage, and white sauce.