To all the siomai i've eaten before!

CEBU, Philippines - The title is lifted from Julio Iglesias’ song, To all the girls I’ve loved before and it is most appropriate since this article is all about siomai and other dim sum dishes. It is also to acknowledge the financial contribution of Julio Iglesias for the victims of tropical storm Ondoy as the beneficiary of a concert “Heart of Gold” held last March 20, 2009.

Since the introduction of dim sum (literally, touching the heart) to Cebu in the ‘60s, this Chinese version of fast food dishes has gained wide acceptance because the customer can be served quickly via the dim sum trolley and the food is tasty and reasonably priced. People were also fascinated by the way siomai was cooked… the steaming technique which is uncommon in preparing Filipino dishes.

Dim sum is related to a Chinese tradition of Yum Cha (drinking tea) and the patrons were more concerned about what to eat than what tea to drink since these tea houses catered to people with more humble beginnings, like farmers and travellers on the ancient Silk Road. This food evolved into a culinary art among the Cantonese (residents of Guangdong Province) and later gained acceptance internationally.

A video, “Dim sum Odyssey” was once featured by National Geographic and it showed the varieties of dim sum: dumplings, buns, steamed and fried dim sum, rice rolls, animal-shaped dim sum, vegetarian and desserts. Its part of my collection of videos of food around the globe which has reached about, excuse me, 1000 DVDs.

Hakaw (Har gau or Shrimp Dumpling) is the undisputed monarch of the dim sum hierarchy because it has “aesthetics and tastiness in one compact package” and it is “popular because it embodies the quintessence of dim sum.”

 The perfect hakaw has to have a thin, nearly transparent skin after steaming with a tender and juicy taste. It starts with the fresh shrimp, then salt, sugar and chicken stock is added. Baby bamboo shoots are then mixed to complete the filling. The quality of the skin is very important: Chinese wheat starch, tapioca flour and boiling water are to be mixed within a 30 second time frame.

The hardest part is wrapping it since it needs to have a plump belly with a curvature of approximately 30 degrees on each side. Beyond this, it might burst during steaming and anything less; it looks “displeasingly elongated.” So much to study and practice to create perfection!

A new destination to enjoy the pleasures of dim sum dishes is Tsim Sha Tsui Dimsum and Tea Bar (2/L, The Terraces, Ayala Cebu, phone 238-9209). Your favorite food columnist was invited by one of the stockholders, the Dean of Cebu’s fashion designers, Philip Rodriguez. Very fresh in my mind was the container designed by Philip for a sorbet, La Vie En Rose, an original creation in Champagne and rose served during a La Chaine des Rotisseurs dinner.

One of the innovations found in this restaurant is the conveyor belt that delivers the dim sum delights to its customers. Some of the dishes I tried that night were the traditional dishes like the Steamed Fried Rice, Hakaw, Shrimp Toast, Empress Rolls and Chicken Feet. Feeling more adventurous, I also ordered the Mapo Tofu, Hainan Chicken Rice, Dragon Balls and Shrimp Sticks.

The latter dish, Shrimp Sticks, served with a dressing of mayonnaise (with a hint of wasabi) is enough reason why my beloved readers should try this restaurant. And prices are very reasonable even to a Cebuano like me!?