Southern Heritage Trail 2009: Journey links us with our past

Lessons in the formal classroom setting are not enough to trigger deep appreciation for our rich cultural heritage; neither are our jobs functioning fully for that purpose. Essentially, the culture of travel must be inculcated and cultivated in us, for as we get a closer look at our tangible heritage like visual arts, craft, and architecture - on top of our customs and traditions passed on to generations through songs, dances, and poetry - we develop within us this cultural pride on who we are as a people.

Here in Cebu for example, stakeholders of the Suroy Suroy Sugbo have sustained the project – on its 18th staging since 2004 – to underscore how the culture of travel continually raises awareness on things of artistic, historical, and scientific value; deepen our understanding on how culture influences what our society values; and spawn and spread development opportunities in the countryside.

The Suroy Suroy journey, initiated by Governor Gwendolyn Garcia, brought forth two positive developments in the field of heritage conservation – the ongoing restoration works on centuries-old churches and the establishment of both trail and church museums in the towns of Cebu for the purpose of enrichment of culture and knowledge, and preservation, protection, as well as recovery of lost artifacts.

The Southern Heritage Trail caravan from January 21 to 23 took over 300 of us – 90 percent balikbayans who mostly, and admittedly, knew very little of the southern towns despite having been born and raised here. The stop in Carcar provided a tour around the Carcar Museum, once an infirmary designed by its former mayor Mariano Mercado. Kept there, among implements and other old items, are the swords and elaborate costumes used by the cast of the “linambay” – our version of the moro-moro/komedya or zarzuela. The latter are forms of play dramatizing plots drawn from European metrical romances. The trip provided a hint as to how the Carcaranons are responding to that necessity of passing on to today’s youngbloods such a colorful tradition, side by side with the balitaw.

Another discovery that drew “wows” was that dance-drama in Moalboal, on Laguno Sabanal, the legendary hero from Bohol who settled there and subdued the Moro invaders without necessarily fighting (which is the highest of skills), reflective of the new Moalboalanons’ grasp and understanding on how should we act receptively to transitions and be quick with wits.

After the caravan offered a closer look at the dynamic and electric spirit of the people in Moalboal who hosted the Suroy Suroy dinner before participants hit the sack, the next stop – Alegria Church Museum – provided valuable snippets of information aside from a collection of religious artifacts. Etymology, for example, of barangay Cambinocot was traced to the datus who ordered women to be veiled; thus, a village of “binocotan.” Then the terpsichorean prowess of Samboan youngsters in their superb “tagay” dance offered a clue on the social life and graces of our forebears.

In Boljoon, museum curator Harry Soco shared the concern nowadays of parishioners in recovering antiques. “Sa hinayhinay na-educate ra gyod nato ang katawhan kun unsa ka-importante ang mga antigo; hopefully, we will be able to recover more of those stolen religious icons, and artifacts, as those rightfully belong to the people,” he said.

Unlike last year wherein parishioners, who milled around an excavation in the vicinity of the Nuestra Señora de Patrocinio Maria Parish Church, thought that the Carolinian sociologist-anthropologists were “hunters looking for gold,” they now are aware of the historical richness of their place. They take pride in the fact that Boljoon is the only town here that has evidence to show pre-Hispanic times. Further, they are proud of the craft of their women – known to be excellent “mananahis” and “bordaderas” as proven by the intricate inuud embroidery works now displayed at the Boljoon Parish Museum.

The Suroy Suroy program actually serves only as a “teaser” for those wanting to delve into the wonders, wealth, and rural charm of the 22 interesting destinations down south. Upon the beat of drums, every traveler would come to realize that though the feet may learn the steps, only the heart can dance; same way that though the feet may take us kilometers down south, only our cultural pride could walk for that purpose of connecting those next in line to our past.

As to the physical journey, it is expected that after each Suroy Suroy, there will always be a “Balik-Balik Sugbo” for a spin-off. But for cultural identity to travel to the next age, Arch. Melva Rodriguez-Java, director of conservation and heritage research institute and workshop of the University of San Carlos, said that we are to first claim ownership and responsibility for the preservation of our traditions, values, and customs as well as their expressions legible in our arts, craft, and architecture for therein “lies the text of our story as a people.”