Inspired by the recent success of the chick-flick Twilight, perhaps nude and pale are the operative words for the summer scene. A quick scan of the invocations in this year’s offerings show the 50s, 60s and 70s crossed with icons of eccentricity Jean Shrimpton, Twiggy, Loulou de la Falaise and Jerry Hall, all transported to the present —was clue enough that what followed would be a riot of pretty and pale.
Designers and retail didn’t turn up the volume all at once, though. Instead, Oj Hofer started off uncharacteristically minimal with an asymmetrical blush jersey gown with a sari-inspired drape. Ditto for Edwin Ao whose menswear had an ultra comfy straightjacket inspired suit in linen/cotton blend. Ironic isn’t it? But soon enough we were neck deep in densely detailed nude dress (pleated, appliquéd and embroidered) from Ren Manabat and mythic phoenix embroideries, sizzling sequins, and candy-colored chiffon strapless gown by Philip Tampus, both doubling up on the drama factor with generous origami pleating and a voluminous trail respectively.
Jun Escario occasionally came up for air with flowing silver-toned satin dresses, some with a focused chunk of blingy crystal beading—they were still look-at-me dresses, but sans the madness. The pale principle trickled to retail with a butter-colored shirt and neutral trousers from mensline
Arrow. Though it’s often said that executing simplicity is what’s difficult, going over-the-top also requires a deft hand, which most designers toned down for these difficult times.