Wagyu beef reigns supreme

Wagyu beef (wa means Japanese and gyu means cattle) can be applied to the meat of any cattle from the Wagyu breed. There are four families of the breed: Black (kuroge washu), Brown (katsumo washu), Short horn (Nihon tankakushu) and Polled (mukaku washu). Originally, cattle were used to cultivate the rice fields; eating meat from four-legged animals was prohibited in Japan for a thousand years (until 1868). The Buddhist religion was responsible for this restriction.

Eventually some innovative Japanese broke the rule and found that what was considered taboo was delicious. Perhaps it was some military leader who found that feeding beef made the soldiers significantly stronger (before, rice, fish, chicken and veggies ra!) and he made success in the battle field. Whatever reasons, beef became accessible to the ordinary Japanese.

New opportunities were open and breeders began selecting some Wagyu for human consumption (records of this effort are documented in 1830) and some crossbreeding occurred with Western breeds contributing to the genetic character of Wagyu. Quality was the target with emphasis on selecting animals with tendency for marbling (intramuscular fat deposits). The increase in fat makes the meat tender and juicy and the fat flavour becomes the dominant taste in the beef.

 Kobe beef refers to Wagyu cattle raised in the Hy?go Prefecture (capital is Kobe) and follows the production standards of that region. I have the video documentary, Mondo Cane showing Wagyu drinking beer and given a massage. The popularity of such beef in the U.S. has led to the creation of “Kobe-style” beef.

 In 1976, the first Wagyu bulls arrived in the U.S. and this herd of Wagyu were crossbred with Angus cattle and the American Kobe was born. In 1990, Australia followed, importing a female followed by frozen semen and embryos and the formation of the Australian Wagyu Association was inevitable. Any beef with Wagyu genes is called “Wagyu” regardless of its country of origin. And when you talk about genes, verifiable gyud na using DNA analysis.

In Cebu, beef patrons can now enjoy Wagyu beef at the wagyu steak house + wine bar (Wilson St. Lahug, phone 2320939 sharing the same building with PINO restaurant). A new restaurant means more work for your favorite food columnist. On the other hand, an older restaurant serving a new menu also means that the work, excuse me, never ends!

Food tasting began with appetizers like Baked Oyster Rockefeller, Scallop with Caviar (seared New Zealand scallops with lump caviar) and Seared Marinated Foie Gras. The latter is my favorite but limited portions gyud because the main objective is the wagyu. Soup served was a choice between the Gratinated French Onion Soup and the Fine Agnes Sorrel.

Two salads were offered, Reef Lobster Salad and Caesar Salad; very nice, very difficult to refuse and thank you but my digestive system operates only at 50 percent capacity during lunch time and no wines or any alcohol beverage for me to help digest these very fine dishes.

Main courses were the Chilean Sea Bass in Black Truffle Sauce, Osso Buco Gremolata (Australian beef shanks braised in Italian red wine and served with sauce gremolata) and two types of steak, Wagyu Tender Beef and the Wagyu Gold Rib-Eye Steak. We shared the dishes and my personal food rating is as follows: Chilean Bass, good; Osso Buco, very good; Tender Beef, very, very good and the Gold Rib-Eye, well, it was one the finest steak I ever ate.

Finally the desserts: a choice between the Trio of Brûlées (Belgian chocolate brûlée, Grand Marnier brûlée and Vanilla bourbon brûlée) and the Taste of Miniature Pastries (Classic opera, Tiramisu in espresso leather and fresh fruits in puff pastry).

Very difficult this job, choices, choices pa. I keep it simple, try na lang everything!