A feast up north: A Culture and food infusion

The “Suroy Suroy sa Sugbo, Northern Escapade” for the uninitiated would be a bit intimidating, tedious, and monotonous but by the end of the day, reflecting on the events that transpired, I realized that the trip opened my eyes to the realities of life in the rural areas where everyone craves for a reason to celebrate, to voice out their opinion, and to show-off their many treasures no matter how mundane or simple they may be for an urban ilk.

Day 1: A culture of hospitality

Arriving at Orosia Food Park in Consolacion on our very first day, we were greeted by beautiful lasses as we disembarked from our buses, crowning us with beautiful saroks (hats made of bamboo and dried banana leaves) and making me feel like royalty being led to the most awaited breakfast – our very first meal in what would become a three-day eating hysteria.

Apparently, northern Cebu is filled with many cultural treasures. Compostela boasts of such richness as having a claim on the Kuradang, a local wedding dance that was popular ages ago.

At around 11:45 AM, we arrived at the grounds of the Church of Santo Tomas de Villanueva in Danao City where I was deeply awed by the beautiful stone structure that greeted me upon alighting from the bus.

On seeing the bibingka (rice cakes made of ground rice, coconut milk, sugar, and egg), I immediately dug-in while watching young karansa dancers in costumes of lively colors do their kiay (sway), karag (tremble), kurug (shake) and kurahay (slide). With city employees spread all over the city plaza in designated places and dancing to the tune of Mabuhi (which I now associate to be the theme song of this trip), I felt like I was watching the production of a music video for a patriotic song usually played in theaters before a show.

We passed by Carmen for lunch before proceeding to Alegre Beach Resort for our Sogod stop. The warm welcome was felt from the moment we arrived at the border of Carmen and Sogod. Students waving colorful flags lined the streets all mirroring a happy and contented attitude that was also evident in our local guide who happened to be a respected principal of an elementary school in the place. Indeed Sogod was “so good.”

In Daanbantayan we were greeted by a small protest seeking justice for the death of a local political personality. Nonetheless the breathtaking cultural presentation  raised the spirit of the guests. The 122 year-old Sta. Rosa de Lima Parish Church offered a warm spiritual haven, its rough appearance giving away its age.

A glorious dinner under the sparkling sugary Medellin stars ended our trip. After dinner, guests were brought to the town plaza by trisikads (tricycles) where booths featuring the history and products of the place carefully lined the border of the town square.

Before retiring to our respective resorts, the Medellin night sky was lighted with an array of colors a way for the people of Medellin to show their appreciation for the visit – a fireworks display that seemed to last for eternity.

Exhausted, over-fed, and now culturally endowed, I retired to my comfortably cool room at Warren’s Beach Resort in San Remigio. The place was breathtaking, postcard perfect, and the best place to dream of the next trip in the morn.

Day 2: The island festival

On the second day, exhaustion seemed to have escaped me as it was 12 midnight when I decided that I had enough chitchat with four new friends from INeed Magazine: Alma, Geraldine, Jerry Park and Eric Shin. They were in the trip to check out the places of Northern Cebu which they hope to feature in the next issue of their bilingual mag (Korean and English). Five minutes of walking in pitch black darkness outside the compound of Sta. Fe Beach Club, a rough voice suddenly called out, “Sikad sir,” inviting me for a ride on a pedaled tricycle. Shaken by the sudden appearance of an entity in the shadows I accepted the invitation not wanting to risk facing the unknown should I have chosen to take the long walk to Kota Beach where I was billeted on the second night.

Looking at the beautiful star-filled Sta. Fe night sky, I thought that that day may have been the best day of the whole trip.

It started with a short program at San Remigio Beach Club amidst the backdrop of a makeshift pirate ship and the beautiful calm sea that made San Remigio famous among beach-buffs. Mark Anthony Ynoc, the owner of the resort, bared that they are currently strengthening the association of beach resorts in San Remigio hoping to promote the place as the next summer destination of the country.

We then crossed the Tañon Strait on to enchanting Bantayan Island where we had our fill of seafood at the Ogtong Beach Resort in Santa Fe. We passed by Madridejos before proceeding to Bantayan where Mayor Geralyn Escario-Cañares and the Bantayanons  prepared an enchantingly rich cultural presentation at the town plaza.

I was quite intrigued by the place, especially since this was the hometown of my grandfather, the ever humble Rodolfo Salgado. An old settlement established in 1580, Bantayan is also home of the 400-year old Bantayan church which is a testament to the strong faith of the island folks.

That night, we were entertained by a great show over dinner. An umalohukan (village announcer) going around the park with a bell announced the start of the program. We were then drowned in a cultural experience like no other. Manalabtans (prayer leaders) sang the opening prayer and rendered several Cebuano songs now lost due to the emergence of pop culture, while young people performed folk dances including a beautiful rendition of the Palawod Festival against the backdrop of colorful bangkas (small boats).

Monika Gaber, an Austrian national, was totally awed by the presentation and was especially appreciative of the Bantayanon’s effort to make the guests feel welcome, encouraging them to take part in the program. She especially appreciated Mayor Geralyn’s warm and welcoming demeanor as she interacted and chatted animatedly with all the guests, not just with the political bigwigs and VIPs present.

Day 3: Of barrio games and rural fun

The next day I had to force myself out of bed still dreaming of the exciting festivity the night before, and owing to the extra comfort of a spacious cool room all to myself, thanks to Kota Beach. Nonetheless, I have to force my butt to move, have a cool bath (the water was surprisingly salty), and my daily dose of coffee (I had three cups).

We crossed the Tañon Strait back to Hagnaya wharf and then proceeded to our first stop for the day, the City of Bogo.

In Tabogon, we were given a taste of the sense of community that is still common in the upland areas in the country. Old folks danced the Curacha in its purest and rawest form sans the embellishments usually evident in presentations performed by “tamed” cultural dancers. Borbon, on the other hand, gave us a taste of barrio games with the palo sebo (kids climbing a greased bamboo pole) and with kids chasing after a piglet. The fun that was lost with the coming of technology has survived in this humble town.

In Catmon, we were welcomed at the fort-like Hunahuna Beach Resort owned by couple Al and Merly Schurch who are also behind Meddah Spa and Touch n’ Heal. The spa-like ambience of Hunahuna typifies the laidback lifestyle of Catmon, while the sweet smiles of its residents were translated to its local delicacies, the champoy (candy made of tamarind and sweet potato) and the colorful coconut balls.

Capping the three-day trip extravaganza was Liloan, known for its biscuit-icon, Titay’s. Guests were given a brief tour of Titay’s bakeshop where the delicious rosquillos, galletas and otap are made to the crispiest crumb. A show was prepared for the guests against the background of the enchanting Bagacay Point Lighthouse in Amara, an Ayala Land project in Catarman, Liloan. Sadly, guests were taken aback by the unwelcoming spirit of the place, with a ribbon separating the Suroy Suroy guests from the VIPs and ushers who seemed to have a preference as to whom they will attend to.

A guest who requested not to be named commented, “In the other places, we could actually sit beside the Governor and had our fill of food but here we don’t get to have a good view of the presentation or have a filling dinner since the locals already got the good seats and were the first ones to immediately flock to the buffet table.”

In reflection, the whole trip served as a teaser for local and foreign tourists who wish to know what the province has to offer in terms of hospitality and tourism. Northern Cebu offered a variety of cultural experience: from the localized pop culture of Compostela, Danao, and Liloan to the more traditional culture of Tabogon, Sogod, Daanbantayan and Bantayan. The callous attitude of urbanized places were defused by the warm and welcoming spirit of Bantayan and Sogod (no wonder tourists flock the place). And as the song goes, “Mabuhi! Mabuhi! Mabuhi ka Sugbuanon!” Cebuanos love life too much.

For a more detailed account of my trip, check my blog at www.xanga.com/tribong_upos.