Goodbye Paparazzi, Hello Acqua

It's difficult to part with friends like the Paparazzi, an Italian Restaurant at Shangri-La Mactan.

This place was the venue of many celebrations in the past. It had the precise qualities to be described as an authentic Italian restaurant. It had an Italian Chef, access to the freshest Italian ingredients and a wood-fired oven. It made its niche in Cebu's culinary history.

Last Sunday, August 6, 2006, I was invited to meet a new acquaintance named Acqua. It was easy to admire this new Italian restaurant located at the garden level of the Ocean Wing of Shangri-La Mactan.

"The architect knows exactly what he is doing. The interiors are deliberately neutral like unobtrusive furniture, white color and glass panels so that the diner's vision is focused on the picturesque view of the infinity pool and the sea. Even the dining room located at the back is elevated to allow guests a panoramic view," so remarked Cebu City Mayor Tommy Osmeña (ahem, my interest is very limited...only food!).

Italian tradition dictates that festivities should start during daytime and Acqua's formal launching adopted this ritual with a Luncheon Cocktail Buffet. Music was provided by Music Theatre Australia with a string of opera classics like the Nessum Dorma by Puccini (unfortunately, my eardrums are uncultured but I recognized this piece in a food-related video in Living Asia Channel).

There was a synchronized water performance by Synchro Swans, the Philippine national swimming team (regrettably, I was too busy taking photos) and a silent auction with items like ladies bags donated by JM Lhuillier for the benefit of Care for Children Foundation and Batang Opon Foundation (Conveniently, my wallet was left at home!).

Back to my favorite pastime....food. I began with the Soup Show: a choice between smoked tomato soup on garlic croutons and sun-dried tomatoes and the Wild cream mushrooms on truffles essence with Parmesan shavings and chive.

In Italy, tomatoes are placed in net bags and are smoked to preserve it just like we smoke fish. It was a pleasant surprise to know that the table life of tomatoes can be extended for months using the paaso-han technique. When I see tomatoes rotting in Carbon Market because there is an oversupply and farmers are forced to sell their produce in the fresh state, I realize why we are a poor... no, underprivileged... country.

Other countries like China practice this time-tested method by smoking not tomatoes but the whole body of a pig. And the pork becomes as hard as wood (they seem to last indefinitely and the video I have is a twelve-year-old specimen). You need a saw to carve the portion you want to cook.

I finally decided on the mushroom soup and I could smell and taste all the wonderful elements of Mother Earth in each sip of this liquid. I simply had to order a second cup. That was great!

Onwards to the appetizers and to render a proper culinary accounting of this event, I felt obligated to work very hard. I proceeded courageously to taste each Appetizer, Cold bites and Warm bites.

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