Paradise about to be lost

I haven’t been to Boracay in over 10 years. So I decided to see how it is doing with my visiting California-based daughter. The nice powdery white sand beach that Mother Nature gave us is still as amazing as ever.

The rainy weather didn’t let me see a dramatic sunset during our four-day stay. But the way the sun struggles to peek through the thick clouds was drama enough in this rainy season.

Then again, Mother Nature can only do so much. Boracay has been over commercialized, making it a poor choice particularly for foreign visitors looking to have a restful vacation.

You can’t walk two steps without being approached by vendors selling everything from a tattoo, massage services, boat rides, seafood buffets, etc. And they can be persistent.

I understand people need to make a living. I understand too that in our labor surplus economy, these hawkers have little choice. But letting a horde of them run loose among the visitors could be irritating.

And they are all selling basically the same things. It’s such an inefficient way of selling to the visitors.  The local government should organize them, give them definite places to offer their services and allow the guests to roam free without their incessant peddling. I have been to a lot of foreign beach resorts and while some may have some hawkers too, it’s not in the number that we have in Boracay.

I am told that shortly after Boracay reopened following its rehabilitation by a national task force, there were no hawkers and the white sand beach can be enjoyed peacefully. But after the island was returned to the Malay LGU, the beach flies were back.

Then again, maybe it doesn’t matter because Boracay is already losing its foreign visitors. My favorite tourism columnist, Stella Arnaldo reports that the island has breached the two million visitor level last year. But about 80 percent were local visitors. In 2019, they also attracted about the same number of visitors but half of them were foreign. Indeed, hotel and restaurant prices are geared toward forex paying visitors which means only upper middle class domestic visitors can afford them.

The good restaurants are always busy, never mind the Makati prices. Even the not so good restaurants are also able to fill up at night.

The other thing about Boracay is its airport. It has been over ten years in the making. San Miguel got the contract to modernize the airport and it concentrated on lengthening the runway to accommodate an Airbus 320. It is the fourth busiest airport in the country after NAIA, Mactan and Davao.

The terminal building is very third-world looking, not appropriate for a supposedly world-class tourism destination, but at least the air conditioning works super cool. Construction of the new terminal hit some snags.

I asked CAAP and San Miguel to explain what happened and where we are now.

Here is Capt. Skee Tamayo, the CAAP director-general’s reply:

“Good evening Boo. It is true that TransAire/SMC is already delayed in implementing its obligations pertaining to the construction of a new Passenger Terminal Building (PTB) under the Caticlan Concession Agreement. SMC was supposed to build a 9,000-square meter passenger terminal building.

“The two-storey Girder Frame that was mentioned in your message was actually the structural foundations for the supposed terminal. However, due to issues with SMC’s contractors, they did not push through with its construction. That is not to say that TADHC (Trans Aire Development Holdings Corp.) will not construct a new PTB.

“In fact, based on latest submissions and coordination meetings, SMC is planning to construct a new PTB that is about 22,000 sqm in size. CAAP has already provided its comments on the design.

“According to the timeline presented by SMC to the CAAP Board, the new PTB will be completed by July 2026.

“We note also that SMC’s obligations under the concession agreement do not only pertain to the construction of the terminal. Airside civil works and navigational equipment are also part of SMCs obligations.

“SMC was able to extend the runway (by leveling a hill and reclaiming the sea) to allow Airbus operations at Caticlan Airport. It can now accommodate limited international flights.

“The CAAP Board has requested regular coordination meetings with SMC and a monthly status report to the Board.”

Here is San Miguel’s response:

“Despite the delays, construction of the new passenger terminal at Caticlan Airport is set to commence. This project has faced numerous challenges since our involvement began in 2011.

“Initially, the runway was only 600 meters long. To date, we have invested over P1 billion in property acquisitions for right-of-way, as well as in the widening and extension of the runway and for upgrading of the equipment. By the end of the concession period, these properties will go to the government.

“Today, the runway has been extended to 1.8 kilometers, capable of accommodating both domestic and international jet aircraft.

“The initial construction of the new terminal was postponed due to Boracay’s six-month closure in 2018 and the COVID-19 pandemic, which imposed further limitations on work and travel, necessitating a redesign of the project. Additionally, the completion of the essential road network by the DPWH and DOT is still pending.

“The project also faced delays due to right-of-way issues, involving residential, educational and other structures. However, with these issues now resolved and the design approved, we are set to begin construction.”

ROW, the usual hindrance plaguing infra projects, is a government responsibility. SMC is now out-of-pocket on ROW and hopefully they get reimbursed.

The biggest problem with Boracay is the LGU. The madness at the beachfront betrays its lack of understanding on how to run an international tourism destination for the long term. They should learn from the Indonesians in Bali. Otherwise, that new airport may be too big as visitor numbers drop and Boracay becomes Paradise Lost.

Boo Chanco’s email address is [email protected].