The enchanted ‘casas colgadas’ of Cuenca

Spain is one of Europe’s most popular holiday destinations. Increasingly, people are turning away from the over-commercialized seaside resorts in search of the real Spain. Scholars and artists are looking for the distinctive identity of this fascinating country, exploring how the different regional cultures evolved. From the ancient villages in the rugged mountains of the North to the white-washed houses of Andalusia in the south, sociologists absorb and record the cultural Spanish regional styles and how they interact with one another.

I really enjoy going back to Spain for a number of reasons. The bracing climate, the unique landscape, arts and culture and of course, the food specially jamon Serrano. In my frequent visits, I was exposed to the best humanity has to offer in terms of architecture – beautiful Mudejar towers, Moslem mosques, Baroque and Romanesque churches, ancient and fortified cities and some very unusual, historical landmarks.

But there is one place in this country that I’ve especially wanted to capture in pen and ink. The picturesque old town of Cuenca, situated in central Spain lies 163 kilometers away from Madrid. Situated above the deep valleys of the Jucar and Huecar Rivers, it is especially noted for houses perched perilously just above and even offer the cliff line. These hanging houses called casas colgadas date back to the 14th century.

Most of the houses, tall, narrow, 15-floor buildings, were built initially from the top and gradually descended to an abyss. The entire city is a noble attempt at climbing, as if there was a desire to dig itself out of the rock and at the same time, a daring challenge to fly from the abyss to the sky.

From a painter’s point of view, the town resembles a cubist painting, complete with lines, textures, forms and colors, yet it is super realism in character. You can easily walk down narrow alleys and passageways without thinking of time and space. The interiors and corners of each street are mysterious but waiting and wanting to be discovered.

To my surprise, one of the hanging houses from the cliff is a sanctuary of the arts, the famous Museum of Abstract Art, a result of the fervor of two great Spanish artists, our very own Don Fernando Zobel de Ayala and Don Gustavo Torner.

Don Fernando belongs to the prominent founding family of Makati and was born in Manila in 1924. He is an artist and intellectual par excellence and regarded as the Father of Art Criticism in the Philippines before he became an outstanding modern painter in the ’50s and early ’60s. Don Gustavo Torner is a well-known artist from Spain.

Cuenca is like a previous stone set in pure light.

As powerfully drawn as I was to Cuenca, I was surprised to find another place just outside the city proper where time also does not count. This place is the Enchanted City and fully worthy of its appellation. It is most definitely not only a must-see but it must also be felt and touched by visiting artists, especially sculptors.

It is a world of gigantic sculpture, lying on the hillsides with natural vegetation and all uncarved by human hands. There are thousands of these rock formations big and small, abstract and figurative, purely by the rain, sun and wind. I guess the Creator does not categorize the style for He creates incessantly without ever repeating His subject. The shape of rock formations seems to grow stronger against the repertoire of nature.

As I left the extremely picturesque casas colgadas, I found myself experiencing a variety of feelings simultaneously – exhilaration at the spectacular sights before me, great joy in the magnificence of nature, comfort of being in a safe, protected place and tearful gratitude for being so blessed as to have the opportunity to be in this wonderful and mysterious place for a special time.