Athens: Grandeur Of The Gods

MANILA, Philippines - “The Acropolis,” exclaimed my fellow travelers in unison, in response to our guide’s query on which particular place we wished to visit first thing the next morning, during the long airport-hotel transfer one late evening, after a much longer flight from home. “Until I see it, I cannot honestly say that I am in Athens, or in Greece.”

Indeed, similar to gazing at the Eiffel Tower in Paris, the Statue of Liberty in New York or the Great Pyramids in Giza, the Acropolis is the icon that marks the ancient city of Athens.

As agreed upon, early the following morning we rushed to the elevated citadel to escape the intense heat and the overwhelming crowds. Once on top, we captured the moment in all its splendor, amidst rocks and boulders -- the Acropolis! Nestled on top of a rocky mount, it contains several ancient edifices laden with religious, historical, cultural and architectural significance.

With an entrance equally as amazing, the Propylaia, with its five portals, used to be the main gateway to the entire area, so it was apt we began our journey here. We stared at the intricate details which exuded a unique grandeur, but we knew we were about to see much more.

Today, the monuments are sadly in various stages of disrepair and decay. However, an on-going long-term renovation seriously aims to revamp and restore them to past glory. It is encouraging to note that this is progressing significantly, as advanced research and cutting-edge technology have sped up the entire process.

We soon stood before the Parthenon, the single most enduring symbol of Ancient Greece. The defining point of Greek culture contains a shrine to Athena, their goddess and patron. We were quickly swept away, as in previous trips, by the towering bastion which stands at approximately 14 meters, coupled with symmetric lines of columns, each hand-crafted with utmost attention to detail.

Nearby, we noted a similar structure, yet still different in its own way, the Erechtheion. It houses a number of sanctuaries, and even boasts of the Porch of the Caryatids, six distinct pillars sculpted in the shape of maidens.

Right alongside is the cult precinct of the Pandroseion, which protects the legendary olive tree, believed to be from Athena herself after her victory against Poseidon. According to lore, Acropolis fell into the hands of the Persians in 480 BC. Afterwards, a shoot sprouted among the rubble and the remains of a tree – and this has been the symbol of the resilience of Athens ever since.

We moseyed over to the separate gate of the Theater of Dionysus, the venue where the great Greek tragedies of Sophocles and Euripides were performed. It is on a sloping hill, which gave us a breathtaking view of the semicircle platform. Imagination ran wild on what it must have felt like to be part of the audience in ages past.

We asked our amiable guide – who has unfailingly shepherded us with care – on the choice of museums one could visit. He did not disappoint: “The National Archeological Museum is packed with unearthed treasures from the classical era, while the Agora Museum showcases the roots of democracy. The Museum of Cycladic Art that preserves some of the first precious marble goddess figures, and the War Museum displays the tools, weapons and equipment from Alexander the Great, up to present times.” I opted to drop by the Panathenaic Stadium, as I was still absorbing the sights and sounds of the day.

Designed as a multi-purpose athletic ring, it is commonly known as the venue of the very first modern Olympic Games in 1896. The oval stage definitely gave off a vibe that was sure to pump up athletes and viewers alike. To add to its magnificence, it is the only stadium in the world built entirely out of marble.

An audio guide, complete with the history and background of the landmark, led me to a secret passageway to the changing room. I walked down the track – the very same one used by all the sportsmen!

The following day, rested and raring to go, we drove to the Agora, an olden term for the central public space where townsfolk would gather and meet up. It was considered an important center of athletic, artistic, spiritual and political enthusiasm. It was the birthplace of democracy, the exact spot where philosopher Socrates conversed with the interested general public, and the same pavement where Saint Paul the Apostle preached to the would-be converts.

An impressive two-story structure, the Stoa of Attalos, now serves as the world-class go-to showroom for all the discoveries and artifacts at the Agora.

Another notable eye-catching sight was the Temple of Zeus, which in its prime was a 20-meter worship site dedicated to the God of Sky and Thunder. When it was completed, it was considered the largest of its kind. Though only 16 out of 104 original columns remain standing today, it is still as majestic as it was before, a true testament to the lasting power of these ancient grounds.

We started the next day more at leisure, and made our way to the Greek Parliament building, where we were able to witness the ceremonial Changing of the Guards similar to those in London, Ottawa, Santiago and Copenhagen. Dressed in pleated kilts and white leggings, with little pom-poms attached to their footwear, the military would perform a series of stiff-legged high kicks as they moved and swapped positions. This interchange is said to be one of the most stylized worldwide.

Stories abound that once, the officer on duty standing beside the sentry box engulfed with flames did not move until he was commanded otherwise. Sadly by then, his uniform had already been exposed to the playful licks of fire and smoke.

As I wandered around the heart of the city, I wondered who else walked these same pathways and trails, and during which era, under what circumstances, only to find myself at the National Gardens, an enclosure of lush growth and various ruins. This public park is open from sunrise to sunset, and features the 12 palms planted by Queen Amalia, spouse of King Otto, the first king of Greece.

Although Greeks often have their lunch at 3 in the afternoon and dinner at 9 or onwards in the evenings, we could not resist trying out the local fare for several meals.

Among our favorites were horiatiki, a rustic Greek salad of sun-ripened tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, green peppers and olives, topped with feta cheese, oregano and extra virgin olive oil; grilled octopus – always caught and served on the same day, mind you; the popular souvlaki, meat skewers with vegetables, pita bread and several dipping sauces; as well as the moussaka, a casserole-type dish which involves sautéed aubergine and tomato, usually with lamb. We savored these feasts with Savatiano, the country’s most popular white wine.

Just as the sun prepared to set, we ventured to Plaka, the oldest section of Athens. Nestled in the shadows of the Arcopolis, it may be considered a mini-village within the city, and is known as a jump-off area to the nearby islands. Most streets were closed to vehicular traffic, and we strolled through artisanal shops, choice jewelry stores and briefly stopped at a welcoming bar and homey bistro.

To finally end our last day and celebrate our Athens holiday, we headed to Thiseio, upon the suggestion yet again of our street-smart guide. Surrounded by hills, we wound down at a café overlooking the city, bearing witness to the magnificent sunset which descended upon the Acropolis.